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View Full Version : Copper grabber of a barrel.



fgw_in_fla
05-04-2013, 06:02 AM
I picked up a new 25.06 Savage fat black barrel. Popped it on one of my actions just to try it out. Compared to my other barrels, it's gets real orange inside & real quick. It needed 3 applications of Sweet's to clean. Other barrels clean up after 1 application. Bright blue patches on all 3 applications.

Question:
Polishing compound on a swab & polish it up a little?

Fire lap using 1/2 a tubs kit?

Shoot it smooth?

Talk to me guys.

jhelmuth
05-04-2013, 08:21 AM
Frank,

I think it depends on what the real use for this barrel is - but of the 3 options, I think fire laping is the best.

Now... were it my barrel, I think I'd sell it and find another. Savages are great, but their history with barrel finishes isn't. Some days the bear eats you. I just don't think there will be a satisfactory treatment to what ills this one....

Good luck my friend

fgw_in_fla
05-04-2013, 08:54 AM
I appreciate your input Jim. I've considered putting it up on the selling block. The 30 - 40 rounds I put thru it were pretty impressive but the copper left behind wasn't.
I 'spose I'll need to look at this one carefully...
Thanks again.

CharlieNC
05-04-2013, 09:08 AM
I polish new Savage barrels with Flitz, around 20 passes and it seems to help. Some barrels will never get like you want. You could just buy my Shilen 25-06 barrel

BillPa
05-04-2013, 09:11 AM
I picked up a new 25.06 Savage fat black barrel. Popped it on one of my actions just to try it out. Compared to my other barrels, it's gets real orange inside & real quick. It needed 3 applications of Sweet's to clean. Other barrels clean up after 1 application. Bright blue patches on all 3 applications.

Question:
Polishing compound on a swab & polish it up a little?

Fire lap using 1/2 a tubs kit?

Shoot it smooth?

Talk to me guys.


The most important question, how does it shoot?

I have a 700 VLS in 243 I affectionately call my "Copper Mine". I swear a bullet starts out a 24 cal and 26 inches later exits a 22, but it has little trouble putting 10 in .5" or under @100 and that's with me driving!:p

The other question, how many shots does it take until all your hard work in undone? One, two?

In most instances copper fouling can be reduced by per-treating the bore with Lock-Ease. It tends to duplicate the powder residue layer laid down from the initial clean barrel shot(s).


Bill

jhelmuth
05-04-2013, 09:29 AM
I polish new Savage barrels with Flitz, around 20 passes and it seems to help. Some barrels will never get like you want. You could just buy my Shilen 25-06 barrel


The most important question, how does it shoot?

I have a 700 VLS in 243 I affectionately call my "Copper Mine". I swear a bullet starts out a 24 cal and 26 inches later exits a 22, but it has little trouble putting 10 in .5" or under @100 and that's with me driving!:p

The other question, how many shots does it take until all your hard work in undone? One, two?

In most instances copper fouling can be reduced by per-treating the bore with Lock-Ease. It tends to duplicate the powder residue layer laid down from the initial clean barrel shot(s).


Bill


Agree with your comments. My reasoning is the amount of time/effort/work that has to be put into these and the questionable end result (either they have minimal imapct or never fully mitigate the problem, thereby still leaving you with a barrel which still requires more time/effort/work). For me (and I'm only speaking for myself), I would rather lose a few $ on a barrel that I really don't like than to spend way more down the road to keep it (and never really be happy with to-boot)...

fgw_in_fla
05-04-2013, 10:15 AM
I'm kinda spoiled with my other barrels. The SS barrels hardly pick up any copper. The black or blued barrels, copper residue is pretty lean, even after 40 -50 rounds. They shine like mirrors when I shine the bore light thru them.

The rounds I've sent thru the copper grabber were impressive. Running OCW test with 100gr Sierra MK,s & 51.9gr of RL19. The charge was near minimum (as per Lyman's 49th) with 4 rounds under a nickel. Since its new, maybe I should give it a chance. Perhaps even break it in? I've Never used a break in procedure on a barrel before. This may be the first....

fgw_in_fla
05-04-2013, 10:19 AM
By the way Bill - I felt the same way. Going in a .257"....
Coming out a .243".

I just may pass a little polishing compound on a swab it. See if I can get it to shine up. It's supposed to be my back up barrel but I'd have to use it & find out it's needs de-coppering after every 5 rounds.

Berniep
05-04-2013, 11:24 AM
I have yet to shoot my 6.5 creedmoor 12lrp but when I put a cleaning patch through it it felt really rough. A nylon brush actually made sort of a squeaking sound when pushed down the barrel. Couldnt push it through in one smooth motion. I used some montana extreme bore polish and after a few passes it is as smooth as silk. I will find out if it fouls if my scope rings and ammo ever get here.

jonbearman
05-04-2013, 05:45 PM
Personally in my humble opinion,I have a PTA action with a 30" stainless factory heavy barrel.It coppered and acted funny with coppering to boot.I scoped it and holy sh#@ the bore looked like the guy stopped and started the rifling at least 50 times.It may actually be reamer chatter but anyways,being without loads of money I went for the david tubb final finish bullet selection and loaded up half of them and shot and cleaned as per instructions.What a wild difference,accuracy has never been better and the copper issue is all but gone.SOOO for all you nay sayers out there in shooting land ,they work and its way cheaper than to keep buying more and more barrels.I have now bought every kit from .224 to .308 for future reference in case I have trouble again.He also makes throat maintenance kits and now they make loaded ammo if you dont reload.

geargrinder
05-04-2013, 08:36 PM
Just shoot it. What does it matter if it coppers? I'd only worry about fixing something if it doesn't shoot.

jhelmuth
05-04-2013, 10:43 PM
Just shoot it. What does it matter if it coppers? I'd only worry about fixing something if it doesn't shoot.


Correct.... if you don't shoot much and like to spend your time cleaning - this is the right answer (not everything fits everyones needs)

geargrinder
05-05-2013, 03:11 AM
Correct.... if you don't shoot much and like to spend your time cleaning - this is the right answer (not everything fits everyones needs)

Even if you shoot a lot and don't like cleaning. Just shoot it.

I had a 300win that wouldn't shoot clean. It would take 10-15 round for it to build up enough copper for it to shoot sub .500". It would continue to shoot that way for 300+ rounds before I would worry about cleaning it. Then it would take another 10-15 rounds for it to settle down again. The groups never opened up after that many rounds, I just always chickened out and figured out it "should be cleaned", after that many rounds.

Let your barrel tell you what it wants. Sounds like yours it saying that it likes to be dirty.

If it ain't broke..... don't fix it 'till it is.

LHitchcox
05-05-2013, 09:14 AM
twenty to fifty passes with Flitz or JB polishing compound should work wonders. I have done a few that were too rough and all improved in accuracy and reduced coppering.

ellobo
05-05-2013, 09:28 PM
I have used this on every new barrel or rifle I have ever acquired. ten to 15 passes up and down the bore with 4 aught steel wool on a jag. Saturated with oil. I have never had an accuracy problem with that scenario. I have even done it more than once to a barrel if they coppered up. This proceedure will send shivers down the backs of the real shooters, but it works for me.

El Lobo

fgw_in_fla
05-05-2013, 09:32 PM
Good info gents.

I appreciate everyone's input. I suppose when I re-install it (after I wear out the current barrel) I'll give it the 'ol once over with a fine grit polishing goop & see how it acts.

Thanks again.
Frank in Fla