Switch barrel tactical rifle questions

[Yoshi]

Howdy! I've been searching far and wide for my next tactical rifle (comps) and I have considered the high-dollar custom Remmy models that guarantee .25 MOA. But, as reality set in, I realized that both of my Savages shoot .50 MOA and blueprinting would probably make them better. Besides, it'll be a whole lot cheaper. Not sure I'll get the .25 MOA, but don't think I want to pay all that money for another 1/4inch. Duh! Sometimes the answer is right under your nose. Anyway, here's a little history before I start my questions... I own the following:
-Model 10 PC, .308, trigger guard bolt release
-LRP, .260, side bolt release
-I shoot tactical comps from 600 - 1200yds

One of these will be going into an XLR chassis and configured in a switch barrel format. First question: What bolt release in Savage going to move forward with? The trigger guard release or the side release? I want the XLR to be able to take any Savage action I purchase in the future. Also, would one of those actions be beefier than the other?

Next, does anyone run a switch barrel and does it affect accuracy/precision?

How easy is the switch barrel change?

How is a switch-barrel different than a standard set up?

Do I need go,no-go guages?

Will blueprinting increase my accuracy potential?

You may ask, why the switch barrel? I just really like the concept. And, I shoot different matches and being able to chose the right calibre would go a long way into maximizing my scores. Plus, I can swap to a .223 for cheap training. Thoughts?

Oh, who should I consider to do this for me? (Gun Smith)

Thanks,
Ken

[fgw_in_fla]

Someone else just asked about the precision / accuracy thing on switching barrels. It's in the 10 / 110 section I think. Check it out.

How easy do they change out? I have it down to 20 minutes. Headspacing included.

How are they different? Don't know. Never changed anything but Savage....

Go / No-Go gauges - I've been using new cases for the calibers I have with a piece of cheapo cellophane tape (Scotch is .002 - .003" & the cheapo stuff is .0015 - .002") on the case head. It's worked fine for me without stretching cases.

Blueprinting? Ask one of our resident Savage Doctors or comp. shooters. Mine can dot the "I" on a pack of Winston at 200 yds repeatedly.... And they're bone stock.

See if you can get NSS on the phone. They have an advertisement on the main page & a section in the vendor section. If anyone can hook you up, it them.

To summarize - I really like having a few 110 & Axis actions & shooting everything from .223wssm to 30.06 & everything in between. It can be a pain in the hiney shooting short ammo in a long action but, you get used to it. With reloading components being a little scarce, I can shoot some of the less common calibers (.257 & 7mm) which are a little easier to find bullets for. Usually.
I'm sure some of the other guys will chime in with more & better info on your subject.
Good luck with your decision...

[palerider338]

To add to what FGW has said.......the XLR chassis is a good option and they can set it up for either side or trigger bolt release.

My Stevens 200 LA in 270 Win w/ Factory sporter barrel is bone stock with the exception of a reworked factory trigger and a pillared and glassed Boyd's TH Varmint stock....... 1/2 MOA group @ 100 yards using Remington CL-SP 150 gr factory ammo.

Total invested in the rifle $ 200 for the original Stevens + $ 100 for the Boyd's + $ 55 for Millett 20 MOA rail + misc. stuff = $ 400.

Add to that a Shepherd 3-9 x 40 FFP BDC scope I have had for years ( $650 originally). Total = $ 1100

BTW: I haven't fired more than 20 rounds in the last 2 years so I'm a tad rusty. ;)

[CharlieNC]

I wish I could shoot tactical consistently well enough to tell the difference between 1/4 and 1/2 MOA. I got a better scope that helped a lot, now working on a better bipod. With my otherwise stock trigger-tuned 308 and 223, they are sitting on Choate Tactical stocks and can easily hold less than 1/2 MOA at 300 yd (my range limit) if I can keep the **** bipod hop under control; I got tired of just shooting off a bench and am still trying to learn this prone stuff! Good stock, scope, and working up the proper load are pre-requisites will probably pay off more.

[bootsmcguire]

Something to look at, if you are going to use the 308 and 260 barrels you have, the 10pc is small shank and the LRPV's are Large shank.

[fgw_in_fla]

I wish I could shoot tactical consistently well enough to tell the difference between 1/4 and 1/2 MOA. I got a better scope that helped a lot, now working on a better bipod. With my otherwise stock trigger-tuned 308 and 223, they are sitting on Choate Tactical stocks and can easily hold less than 1/2 MOA at 300 yd (my range limit) if I can keep the **** bipod hop under control; I got tired of just shooting off a bench and am still trying to learn this prone stuff! Good stock, scope, and working up the proper load are pre-requisites will probably pay off more.

Learn to lightly load your bipod by putting light forward pressure on it. It'll make a difference between free recoil & loading the 'pod.
Additional info for your reading pleasure....
http://www.accurateshooter.com/shooting-skills/bugholes-from-bipod/

[CharlieNC]

Yes, Froggy is the man and the article has a lot of good info. There is a pretty new youtube series Sniper101 by tiborous rex (spellingxx); 45 of them so far ranging from 10-45 minutes long. Some are tooooo long.

[Yoshi]

Something to look at, if you are going to use the 308 and 260 barrels you have, the 10pc is small shank and the LRPV's are Large shank.

From what I've read, the LRP is built on Savage’s enclosed tubular action and is stiffer than Savage’s traditional open sporting receiver. Is that why the shank is larger? From the perspective of my use, would you suggest the tubular action over the standard?

[bootsmcguire]

It has been debated here as to which action is more accurate. No doubt that the LRP styled actions are stronger due to being enclosed. Now does that make them more accurate? The concensus here as always been no.

Savage runs two shank sizes. Standard and Large. The Large was started to house the WSM, SAUM, and RUM series' of calibers. When Savage began making the PTA/LRP actions they chose to use the Large shank here, my guess is it allows them to put heavier barrels on and be a bit of a marketing tool (again my guesses).

As to which action to use: If you plan on picking up used barrels and factory take offs in the future to use for this rig, you find many more standard shank barrels than you will the large shank. If you are going to order custom/aftermarket barrels for your rig, then by all means go with whichever action you prefer.

Hopefully that is a little help. ;)

[Yoshi]

Thanks everyone for all the help and info. Tough decision. I think I'll go with the LRP due to it being a bit more sturdy and I plan on using after market barrels. Thanks again!

[Newsshooter]

I have a LRP in 6.5 creedmoor in a McCree chassis. If I had hit my cold bore this past sunday I would have been well inside the top ten in a tactical shoot 200-1000 yds. Factory action and barrel, got a 1/3 moa group at 300 yds during load testing. Who needs a custom set-up. ;)