Need gorilla or sledge hammer for barrel nut

[limige]

No kidding.. do tell

[bsekf]

Since i would not reuse the smooth nut, I would cut it off with the Dremal tool. Between burrs and blueing salt rust on factory barrels, they can be a bit@#. Be careful with a pipe wrench, you could ding up the barrel. When you put the new barrel, use just a tap and witness marks.

[stangfish]

Brasse,

You are using your pedestal rest backwards.

LOL...he is right. the single leg should be pointed to the rear for recoil and he lock should be accessable to the left hand.

[brasse]

Learn something every day. I keep the lock away from me so it doesn't hang up anything.

I don't have any Super Magnums that require the third leg backwards for recoil? I always thought I had slightly more left/right stability with the two legs going backwards.

I am going to look at the guys at the range that shoot the 50 cal and 338 Lapua and see how they use their rests.

The one thing I just don't feel comfortable with is the rear rest, putting a bag there just doesn't feel right.

The 12 inch pipe wrench if placed right next to the recoil lug doesn't come near the barrel. I was surprised it did not even mar the smooth barrel nut.

[limige]

I wouldve thought two legs in back would be better than one any day. Interesting

[stangfish]

I wouldve thought two legs in back would be better than one any day. Interesting

Not really. For the sake of discussion, the argument could be made that two off to the side will have a tendancy to rock rearward on this particular rest. I think handle access was what made the point. Grab two oars and set them out in front of you to the sides. Now lean into them. Now take one and put it directly out in front of you now lean into it.
http://i1237.photobucket.com/albums/ff464/brasse/MagStockysBrownSightmark5_zps0273c69e.jpg

Does it really matter? NO

What matters is this man is dangerous. Look at the scope..."Counter Sniper" Boom!

[brasse]

I love this scope. Up to 25 power, the turrents are 1/8 so very precise. For the price glass is very clear. When I use the splatter targets I can see where every bullet goes even at 200 yards. For just over $200.

Allows me to adjust for the wind, and learn to be a better rifle shooter. I don't shoot for groups, I try to hit my point of aim every time. When I am on I can nail a target smaller than a dime 6 times out of 8. I watch the "sniper" TV shows, they are using $3000 to $5000 scopes. With the Shilen barrel, Stocky's stock and scope I am still under $1200.

With the Creedmoor cartridge I can shoot all day, although I usually only shoot 30 rounds per rifle, taking at least two to the range each time.

Now this looks like a sniper rifle:
http://i1237.photobucket.com/albums/ff464/brasse/SightmarkScopeA1Stock4_zps7e0aade4.jpg
http://i1237.photobucket.com/albums/ff464/brasse/ARP20TubbsButtplate2.jpg

[TheHebs]

I have been trying for several hours to get the smooth barrel nut off of my savage model 11. I bought the wheeler action wrench, and the wheeler barrel nut wrench(s), which came with the smooth nut wrench. After about 3 or 4 tries of trying to get the barrel nut wrench tight enough so that the barrel wouldnt spin, the smooth nut wrenche's bolt broke... :mad:

Now that the bolt is broken, the only way to get the smooth nut wrench to cinch tight around the nut, is to clamp it into my bench vise:https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ptPOhQLxgug/U5FErjIB0UI/AAAAAAAAK7w/3wxCF4uTNYk/w1621-h912-no/20140605_232946.jpg

You can see here I have the smooth nut wrench clamped into the bench vise so that it grabs tight around the barrel nut. I then beat the action wrench bar counter-clockwise towards the wall (towards the tumblers int he background. Is this correct? The barrel just keeps turning.

I just put some pb blaster on the threads inside the receiver, and on the barrel nut. I guess I will let it soak overnight and try again in the morning. If that doesnt work then I guess I will go buy a pipe wrench from harbor freight. Is this what I need? http://www.harborfreight.com/18-inch-jumbo-steel-pipe-wrench-39644.html

[limige]

Imo cut the barrel nut with a grinder and a cutoff wheel. Replace with standard nut and new recoil lug.
make two opposing cuts and use a chisel and hammer to peel the nut off the threads.

Thats what I had to do

[TheHebs]

Imo cut the barrel nut with a grinder and a cutoff wheel. Replace with standard nut and new recoil lug.
make two opposing cuts and use a chisel and hammer to peel the nut off the threads.

Thats what I had to do


I will use this as a last resort. I will try the pipe wrench and a torch today. I have a new (old style) barrel nut and recoil lug coming with my new barrel.

(mods, sorry for the double post. i originally posted then found this thread and thought I might have better luck digging it up)

[brasse]

The 18 inch pipe wrench it too large. Get a 10 or 12 inch. wrap the barrel with tape in case you slip. Get the pipe wrench teeth engaged, put some tension on and wrap the handle with a hammer. Once the Gorilla loosens use a slotted nut.

A dremil would be an absolute last case, too easy to cut the wrong parts that will never look good again.

I actually used a smooth barrel nut when I put my lightweight 6.8 SPC rifle together. The smooth nut weighs less.


http://i1237.photobucket.com/albums/ff464/brasse/Savage_WeaversideAc_zpse76d6730.jpg (http://s1237.photobucket.com/user/brasse/media/Savage_WeaversideAc_zpse76d6730.jpg.html)

[ger42]

Any ideas on how to remove this barrel? No barrel nut.
Savage 110 barrel is .223 needs replacing. I can't get it off. I have wooden blocks used on barrel put in vice but it won't budge.
My next try is to "freeze" the barrel and use a pipe wrench on the barrel.

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k308/Ger42/Shared%20Pics/IMG_1383_zpsde990290.jpg

[limige]

Careful with heat you dont want to change the temper of your receiver.

I use grinders a lot at work so im know what to do. A newbie would probably want to practice on something else. But a few layers of gorilla tape over the receiver helps protect from slipping up. Key is not to force the cut, allow the wheel to do its job and slowly keep moving from the muzzle to the receiver then back toward the muzzle. Keep the receiver to your left side because of the rotation of the grinder will want to pull it toward the muzzle not the receiver.

[limige]

Ger42 you might be on the right track. Thermo cycling can help loosen threads. The thing you never want to do is force the threads into galling. Buy some dry ice and wrap the barrel in it. Wait 5 hrs or so and hit the receiver with something warm and try to loosen it. Maybe simply a hot washcloth?

[FW Conch]

Yep! Just like cutting a gallded bearing off a precision shaft! :))