Model 10 bedding question

[mdharris68]

Is it true that you have to float the tang on a model 10 when bedding the action?

Thanks

[JW]

That is the common practice and I have first hand knowledge that it does help, in my rifles case anyway

Jack

[jb6.5]

I've done it both ways. It is most common to float the tang, but had some good results bedding from in front of the recoil lug all the way back. I think the most important thing is make sure when its all said and done is when you tighten the action down, your bedding is even and there is no bind on anything, if that makes any since.

[squirrelsniper]

Not bedding the tang just removes a possible variable. Since the tang is the weakest part of the action and Savages do not use the tang as a load-bearing area, there's no reason that it needs to be bedded. You can simply put 2-3 layers of electrical tape on the tang and concentrate on bedding the things that are actually needed for stabilizing the action.

That being said, there's no rule that says a Savage's tang must be floated if the rifle is going to be accurate. I've seen Savages that shot great with the tang bedded, but I still don't bed mine that way.

The only thing I've seen that always seems to hold true is that you can't do anything half-way. Problems occur if the tang is just making partial contact with the stock. Bottom line; either be sure it's fully floated when you're done, or if you do bed it, make sure you fully bed it just like it was Remington.

[mdharris68]

Well when I got this featherweight thumbhole stock, I started to open the barrel chanel and noticed that the tang was riding above the wood. So as I worked my way back, I had to lower the tang into the wood to get the ejection port plum with the stock. So I went ahead and inletted it enough to give a slim bedding. If it seems to mess up accuracy, I can always grind it back out.

[lal357]

why is it that on all the video's i see they tape the recoil lug so it has a loose fit in the stock when you bed it i bought a used stock that was already bedded and with a northlander recoild lug there is no slack when seating the action. i literally have to slide it in perfect or it wont go into the stock .

[jb6.5]

There just floating the tang
its not to give it a loose fit.

[D.ID]

why is it that on all the video's i see they tape the recoil lug so it has a loose fit in the stock when you bed it i bought a used stock that was already bedded and with a northlander recoild lug there is no slack when seating the action. i literally have to slide it in perfect or it wont go into the stock .

Typically done on sides and front of the lug to allow it in and out without the risk of chipping the bedding on the back if you try to slide it in at a less than perfect angle. Rear of the recoil lug should never be taped or it would defeat the purpose of bedding.

[lal357]

that would make sense if i was taking out of the stock alot i could see that happening but once they are in and torqued i tend to leave the alone was just wondering .i'm going to try and bedd my first one when the new stock gets here next week .

[squirrelsniper]

why is it that on all the video's i see they tape the recoil lug so it has a loose fit in the stock when you bed it i bought a used stock that was already bedded and with a northlander recoild lug there is no slack when seating the action. i literally have to slide it in perfect or it wont go into the stock .

Again it's about reducing a variable. The rear surface of the recoil lug is the only thing that really matters, so putting a couple layers of tape on the bottom, sides, and front of the lug just makes sure those surfaces can't cause any problems later. Plus it makes removing and re-installing the stock a lot easier.

[mdharris68]

Ok so my first attempt was close but a failure none the less. If you have ever had a laminated featherweight thumb hole stock for a 10 in your hands, you would see that the rear action screw hole area is really very lacking of wood due to the sear angle and everything going on right there. So when I was cranking down the action screws I heard a crack. I think that the bedding was too thin and and there is not much real estate there to hold the rear of the action.

I am thinking that I can pillar bed this combination and not worry about that crack. Do you guys think that by partially grinding out the first bedding job and adding a second coat with pillars that I can save the stock?

Also what is the torque once finished. I think I was at 50 in lbs when I heard it crack. I am guessing with pillars, the torque could be the same as the accustock, at 60 in lbs?

Also after I have done as much reading as possible on pillar bedding, I still can't wrap my mind around the why of it. What does it actually do to the system?

Any help appreciated.

[FW Conch]

"68", the reason for pillars is to provide metal to metal contact from the action screws to the action, free of influence from the stock. Since you have read so much about the subject, you must have encountered the methods where the stock is pillar bedded in a completely stress free manner. The opposite of this is installing an action in a stock where contact is made unevenly causing stress and torque, etc., on the action, usually causing accuracy problems. The best stocks have aluminum skeletons from butt to fore end, to provide rigidity, which have a bedding block in the middle of it that the action sets on. That way the action doesn't touch the stock at all, it sits firmly on the bedding block and the skeleton. This is the "best"! Next is pillar and glass bedding. I wouldn't think of glass bedding without the pillars. Its pretty much a waste of time ? In fact, it's possible to have a pillar job good enough that you don't need the glass bedding. There is no magic number for torque on the action screws. The rifle will tell you what it wants. 60inch#'s on an Accustock has nothing to do with a wood stock with no pillars. Good Luck :) ! ... Jim

[scythefwd]

I'm running a boyds featherweight thumbhole stock. I split out both the front and the rear around where I drilled out the stock for the pillars...


I epoxied in my pillars, and the stock is rock solid..

[mdharris68]

Jim, thanks for the information. When I said I read about it, actually it was watching videos of it being done 75% and reading 25%. I knew it had to do with stress free, but I couldn't quite put my mind around how to mate up the pillars to the metal while getting the stock firmly in place between the two. I plan to rebed with pillars so I will get it figured out. I am having fun trying anyway.


"68", the reason for pillars is to provide metal to metal contact from the action screws to the action, free of influence from the stock. Since you have read so much about the subject, you must have encountered the methods where the stock is pillar bedded in a completely stress free manner. The opposite of this is installing an action in a stock where contact is made unevenly causing stress and torque, etc., on the action, usually causing accuracy problems. The best stocks have aluminum skeletons from butt to fore end, to provide rigidity, which have a bedding block in the middle of it that the action sets on. That way the action doesn't touch the stock at all, it sits firmly on the bedding block and the skeleton. This is the "best"! Next is pillar and glass bedding. I wouldn't think of glass bedding without the pillars. Its pretty much a waste of time ? In fact, it's possible to have a pillar job good enough that you don't need the glass bedding. There is no magic number for torque on the action screws. The rifle will tell you what it wants. 60inch#'s on an Accustock has nothing to do with a wood stock with no pillars. Good Luck :) ! ... Jim

[scythefwd]

oh, MD.. I also only did the sides of the recoil lug, (the narrow edge). I didnt tape the front of the recoil or the back. Its tight enough to keep the action in the stock without screws.. You dont HAVE to tape the front, but it does provide just enough room pull it out easier. Rear contact of the lug to the stock is the most important part of this operation.. I just like the tight feel. It makes it harder to insert the action into the stock.. got to get that stock lined up just right or it dont go..

[mdharris68]

scythefwd,

Ya my first attempt had a good tight fit recoil lug to stock. My second attempt last night had an air bubble on the rear of the recoil lug, but I got the pillars in and got them cleaned up. So I just ground out the lug/locknut area and did it again. Third times a charm right? I had a heck of a mess to clean off last night/this morning but after work I ground out the rear portion of the rear pillar and just got it all back in place. Maybe I will be shooting it this weekend.

[mdharris68]

So I have a couple questions regarding the picture of my bedding;

The part I colored red, should I take that out because it touches the barrel?

Also will the grooved nut fit in the smooth nut bedding the same without any problems?

http://i1343.photobucket.com/albums/o799/mdharris68/e30c3ba0-7510-4561-8563-f9ace53ed310_zps3dcf14d8.jpg

[mdharris68]

My finished 10 PC in a Boyd's featherweight thhumbhole stock.

http://i1343.photobucket.com/albums/o799/mdharris68/image_zpscac0063b.jpg

well i went ahead and ground out the red portion of the bedding and mounted my new SS 12X42 scope and took it out shooting.

this is my 100 yrd sight in target. I was suprised to see the foul shot where it was and then I shot 4 more shots and didn't move the scope at all. the shots up high are when I dialed the scope up 1 mil to see what it would do.

http://i1343.photobucket.com/albums/o799/mdharris68/image_zps1825efa2.jpg


The next target is dialed back to zero and 11 shots as fast as i could comfortably shoot them. I am happy with the bedding job, because this gun used to string them up the target when the barrel got hot. The high shot was in the middle and I pulled it. I think with some good handloads and more trigger time this gun will be more accurate. Waiting on lower rings to get that scope down closer to the bore.

http://i1343.photobucket.com/albums/o799/mdharris68/image_zpsce85273c.jpg