I have met the gorilla!!!

[expfcwintergreen]

jonbearman wrote:

"Using a propane torch with just enough heat will work good.If you use an acetylene torch you would have to be more than careful,I wouldnt advise it.Always use a reciever wrench to stop the reciever from twisting."

=========

Would it be possible to use a heat gun instead of a torch?

Also, would a barrel vice be safer to use than an action wrench because the barrel would be the only thing that could be damaged that way? Is grinding the barrel nut off a better solution if you have a spare?

I don't know what I am talking about having never done it or seen it done; I am just looking for guidance because I expect to be buying a bull barrel for my Model 11 .260 Remington soon from Jim @ NSS.

[LRJammer]

jonbearman wrote:

"Using a propane torch with just enough heat will work good.If you use an acetylene torch you would have to be more than careful,I wouldnt advise it.Always use a reciever wrench to stop the reciever from twisting."

=========

Would it be possible to use a heat gun instead of a torch?

Also, would a barrel vice be safer to use than an action wrench because the barrel would be the only thing that could be damaged that way? Is grinding the barrel nut off a better solution if you have a spare?

I don't know what I am talking about having never done it or seen it done; I am just looking for guidance because I expect to be buying a bull barrel for my Model 11 .260 Remington soon from Jim @ NSS.

In my opinion, the heat gun would be preferable to a torch if heat really is required. The heat give would give a far greater level of control over how hot the steel gets.

[GUNFANATIC]

On my last one, I stripped every last stud off my nut wrench.

[stangfish]

On my last one, I stripped every last stud off my nut wrench.

Holy cow!!!!!

[palerider338]

On my last one, I stripped every last stud off my nut wrench.

They must be giving the gorilla steroids with the bananas.:frusty:

[FW Conch]

We've already heard "it's a LADY, not a "Go-rilla" ! ... and we've also heard, it's probably "thread locker", not torque ! ? :(

[FW Conch]

Stripped all the teeth off your nut wrench? I hope that's a joke?:( ... If not, you should have shifted to one of the alternant methods mentioned above before that happened. When we put a 3' or 4' pipe on the breaker bar and the nut doesn't come loose, we are applying " 200 or more #'s of torque! "I don't believe anyone @ Savage is torqueing the nut that tight"? As mentioned above, the "blueing" process, or thread locker("Lockite") is more likely the culprit. Sometimes, the face of the nut is "rough". I always "stone" mine before assembly. A rough nut face could contribute to the binding? Yes, a good heat gun can produce enough heat to do the job. Even when "Red Loc-tite" (permanent) is used, heat will bring it loose. Bill Pa has a really good set up!:) But the worst teardown I had would not have come loose with his set up without putting a 4' pipe on the action wrench handle, or hitting the handle with a hammer! "It took the heat to get that one loose"! There's a link out there showing Lane Pierce of "Shooting Times" doing a teardown, and he had the "entire kit" @ his disposal, including the action wrench. But he didn't even use it! He just used the "wood blocks" on the barrel ! "That" was an "easy" one! Not the problem teardowns we are talking about on this thread! I think Savage worked with him on that project to make it work like it's "supposed to" ! I'm sure from week to week Savage is worrying about getting sued, so they tell the Lady to "hit the nut wrench" with a 4# hammer, or "Red Loc-tite" is used in the threads to keep trash out, or whatever, etc., etc. But one thing is for sure ! We have enough information on this site to "get that sucker loose" ! ! :) :) :) Good Luck .... Jim

[txbdyguard]

I have been fortunate to not encounter one yet. I did have to get my 1/2 torque wrench and put it in my barrel nut wrench to break a nut free though. But then again I am 6'4 300# so it put up a small amount of resistance.

[GUNFANATIC]

Stripped all the teeth off your nut wrench? I hope that's a joke?:( ... If not, you should have shifted to one of the alternant methods mentioned above before that happened. When we put a 3' or 4' pipe on the breaker bar and the nut doesn't come loose, we are applying " 200 or more #'s of torque! "I don't believe anyone @ Savage is torqueing the nut that tight"? As mentioned above, the "blueing" process, or thread locker("Lockite") is more likely the culprit. Sometimes, the face of the nut is "rough". I always "stone" mine before assembly. A rough nut face could contribute to the binding? Yes, a good heat gun can produce enough heat to do the job. Even when "Red Loc-tite" (permanent) is used, heat will bring it loose. Bill Pa has a really good set up!:) But the worst teardown I had would not have come loose with his set up without putting a 4' pipe on the action wrench handle, or hitting the handle with a hammer! "It took the heat to get that one loose"! There's a link out there showing Lane Pierce of "Shooting Times" doing a teardown, and he had the "entire kit" @ his disposal, including the action wrench. But he didn't even use it! He just used the "wood blocks" on the barrel ! "That" was an "easy" one! Not the problem teardowns we are talking about on this thread! I think Savage worked with him on that project to make it work like it's "supposed to" ! I'm sure from week to week Savage is worrying about getting sued, so they tell the Lady to "hit the nut wrench" with a 4# hammer, or "Red Loc-tite" is used in the threads to keep trash out, or whatever, etc., etc. But one thing is for sure ! We have enough information on this site to "get that sucker loose" ! ! :) :) :) Good Luck .... Jim


Nope. Not a joke. I didn't try another method because I had never had one I couldn't break free out of probably 50 or more. In the past, I always used a barrel vise just to hold it in place, attached an action wrench, nut wrench and gave the nut wrench a couple good whacks with a dead blow. This last one, about 5 hard smacks and stripped my wrench. Since I had an extra nut, I used a big pipe wrench to break it loose.

[sharpshooter]

Don't use a dead blow hammer, use a big ball peen or brass hammer. The utter shock is what breaks the nut loose. I have busted 1000's of nuts loose and never used an action wrench or heat. I still use the very first barrel nut wrench that I made, and it still works. Now if you've seen it, it's beat up on the edges from hammer blows, but all of the teeth are still there.

[chuckbuster243]

I dont like the idea of using a action wrench.... I built a barrel vise and use the nut wrench. When I use a brown paper bag wrapped around the barrel between it and the aluminum shims it wont even mark it. If it does its just aluminum marks on steel. I made a lead hammer and a couple whacks and its loose! I have lots of friends come over to use my vise. even works good on glued in rem barrels. I need to post a photo... Matt

[GUNFANATIC]

Don't use a dead blow hammer, use a big ball peen or brass hammer. The utter shock is what breaks the nut loose. I have busted 1000's of nuts loose and never used an action wrench or heat. I still use the very first barrel nut wrench that I made, and it still works. Now if you've seen it, it's beat up on the edges from hammer blows, but all of the teeth are still there.

Well, there ya go. Mine was a Wheeler, and an old one at that.