getting scope dialed in

[rakatak]

hey guys, just got my 260 rem on stevens built. i bought a egw 20moa picatanny rail, 30 mm burris signature zee rings, and i have the 6.5x20x44 cameraland vortex that was 279.00. got the scope mounted last night, took to range today trying to get scope on at 100 yards and it is shooting way high. i'm talking 7-8 feet high with scope bottomed out. is this normal? any help would be appreciated.

[pitsnipe]

No, that would NOT be "normal". Dont get offended by this question cause I have done some stuff that I asked myself afterwards "what was ya thinkin?" But is the base on backwards? I have one of these. And it will mount both ways cause the holes line up and a round will eject. But the "extra" section of length that would hang out over the barrel nut could hang over the bolt. Otherwise I would suggest starting all over. Take scope, rings, and base back down to individual parts and ya might have missed something? Barrel not "floated" would be another guess.
Good luck

[CharlieNC]

Did you use the Burris inserts to add more elevation on top of the 20moa rail? If so go to no elevation ring inserts, or you may need to get something like 10moa inserts and "reverse" them so the net elevation from the rail and inserts is 10moa.

[rakatak]

i have the high end of the rail mounted on the back of the action and the low end to the front. the scoped is sitting higher in the back than in the front like it is supposed to. on the inserts i have the inserts marked zero on them. i'm thinking i need the 0 moa rail. another thing my action is rounded. the rail that i have is rounded in the front where it sits on the reciever but it is flat in the back where it sits on the reciever. is this correct? thanks.

[drybean]

nope you need the correct base

drybean

[rakatak]

which base from optics planet do i need? the gun is a 260 rem built on a stevens 200 action. no accutrigger. reciever is rounded. thanks guys.

[drybean]

Long or short action ?

drybean

[rakatak]

hey drybean, it's a short action. think i'm gonna try the 0 moa base instead of the 20 moa also. i have the burris signature zees so i can use the inserts for more moa if
needed. i'm thinking it's model #41020. is that correct. sorry it took me so long to get back to you. just got to work. thanks a lot.

[JackinSD]

To go to a 0 MOA that would be the correct model #.

[yobuck]

you could also contact egw directly. these are gun people and they understand these type things.
they will make anything you need very reasonably. ive bought the mount you need directly from them.
optics planet on the other hand is a warehouse type outlet. they would be less apt to know anything
about your problem.

evolution gun works
quakertown pa.
they have a website where you can find the number.

as a side note consider this also.
have you looked into the scope as you turn the knob?
if so, does the cross hair/reticle move as you turn it?
if not loosen the ring screws and try again.
we installed a new vortex viper on my sons rifle this fall.
the windage would not work. we contacted the supplier, (euro optic) and within an hour a factory rep
from wi. was on the phone. he told me that every vortex scope is tested before its boxed and for sure that one worked.
he also told me what the problem was with the scope. the ring screws were too tight.
while he was on the phone we loosened the screws and walla, it worked.
he said 15 inch pounds of tourqe on the ring screws max. i had never torqued a ring screw in my life.
but who can argue. im told nightforce reccomends the same thing.

[geargrinder]

You need a round rear rail to match your round rear action. A flat back rail won't work.

[rakatak]

yobuck, i contacted egw earlier today and talked to some woman. she had no clue what i was talking about. she said she spoke with a man named jim and he told her the flat rail would work. all the other info i got says i should have a round rear rail to match the action. i ordered a round rail and will be sending the flat one back tomorrow. thanks for the info.

[acemisser]

when I first started shooting at the PA 1000 yard range I always used alunimun foil to shim the base if need be.

Never had any effects on the scopes what so ever.All this talk about so many different bases is all a money
making gimic..It is not needed at all...The old timers always made thier own shims and they worked great.
If pope was still around as well as Oconner,etc....And Fairfield or Mass..They all did it...
:cheerful:

[yobuck]

when I first started shooting at the PA 1000 yard range I always used alunimun foil to shim the base if need be.

Never had any effects on the scopes what so ever.All this talk about so many different bases is all a money
making gimic..It is not needed at all...The old timers always made thier own shims and they worked great.
If pope was still around as well as Oconner,etc....And Fairfield or Mass..They all did it...
:cheerful:

yes you are correct on the shim situation. and the reason was scopes like leupold didnt have enough adjustment without shimming the bases.
depending on cartridge you might not make 1000 yds.
but soon gunsmiths began milling tapers on them which was far better. then manufacturers started doing it also.
you might recall also piccatiny type bases werent nearly as popular as today. nor were the insert type rings if they even existed.
in this case the gun is what it is. it just needs to be recognised for what it is.

[JackinSD]

when I first started shooting at the PA 1000 yard range I always used alunimun foil to shim the base if need be.

Never had any effects on the scopes what so ever.All this talk about so many different bases is all a money
making gimic..It is not needed at all...The old timers always made thier own shims and they worked great.
If pope was still around as well as Oconner,etc....And Fairfield or Mass..They all did it...
:cheerful:

Ah, the good old days.

[Jamie]

Rakatak, sounds like you have a flat rear base, get the round rear in whatever MOA you wish. Simple as that. Using the wrong base and trying to shim it will never work correctly and only leaving you posting questions about why your rifle isn't more accurate.

[JackinSD]

Rakatak, sounds like you have a flat rear base, get the round rear in whatever MOA you wish. Simple as that. Using the wrong base and trying to shim it will never work correctly and only leaving you posting questions about why your rifle isn't more accurate.

While Acemisser may be stuck in the past, he was not talking about shimming the wrong base. The OP has also already ordered the correct base of his MOA liking.

[Westcliffe01]

The FIRST thing the OP needs to do after installing his base is to BORE SIGHT the thing.... Put up a target at 25-50 yards, put the gun in a rest, align the bore to the target (remove the bolt completely and sight through the bore, if that is not obvious), then look through the scope. You should never be more than 8" or so out, and often my new scopes are within a few inches at 40-50 yards. Just remember that when bore sighting, you adjust the turret in the same direction to the error. So if the scope is pointing right of the center, you dial in right correction (not left). The scope is pointed right which will result in the barrel shooting to the left, so to fix it, the turret needs to move the aiming point to the right. Clear as mud ?

If he has messed with the turrets, get them re-centered before starting.

Once you are on paper, you stop bore sighting and apply POI corrections the usual way (dial the turret the way the POI needs to move).

I can never understand why someone would not do such a simple procedure ? Surely you want to get sighted in with as little ammunition waste as possible ?

[JackinSD]

The FIRST thing the OP needs to do after installing his base is to BORE SIGHT the thing.... Put up a target at 25-50 yards, put the gun in a rest, align the bore to the target (remove the bolt completely and sight through the bore, if that is not obvious), then look through the scope. You should never be more than 8" or so out, and often my new scopes are within a few inches at 40-50 yards. Just remember that when bore sighting, you adjust the turret in the same direction to the error. So if the scope is pointing right of the center, you dial in right correction (not left). The scope is pointed right which will result in the barrel shooting to the left, so to fix it, the turret needs to move the aiming point to the right. Clear as mud ?

If he has messed with the turrets, get them re-centered before starting.

Once you are on paper, you stop bore sighting and apply POI corrections the usual way (dial the turret the way the POI needs to move).

I can never understand why someone would not do such a simple procedure ? Surely you want to get sighted in with as little ammunition waste as possible ?

You're 100% correct, but let's fix the problem at hand first.

[rakatak]

boresighting wasn't the problem with the gun. i boresighted it at 25 yards and could not get enough elevation on the scope to get crosshairs on at 100 yards. i know how to boresight that is not the problem. i sent 20 moa rail back and am now waiting on egw 0 moa with rounded back. I think that should remedy my problems. appreciate all help.