PT&G bolt head

[chuckbuster243]

Hello everyone,
I just recieved a PT&G ppc bolt head for my savage project (6.5 Grendel on a SA). The rifle started out as a 243 centerfeed accutrigger. I installed the bolt head which is a fine looking machined piece I might ad. But here is my issue. The bolt closes hard.. I mean it will close but it seems as if the head does not want to start on the locking lugs. If you work the bolt hard and fast it does not seem as bad. But if you try to close it slow it moves to the end of travel and I start to finish closing the bolt handle down it does it very stiff and hard. Until the bolt handle moves around 1/4 inch or so down then it moves fine. The old bolt head works fine. What could my issue be? Think the new bolt head is too thick and does not have enough play to slide forward and start on the locking lug recess? Or the new head has sharp corners that bite on the recess? It just feels like when you have a piece of brass that is to long and try to chamber it. But I know its not the case because it has no barrel at the moment. Any ideas would be helpful. Thanks, Matt

[keeki]

Action screw maybe?

[chuckbuster243]

No action screws in it... Just a action in my hand. Waiting to finish chambering my barrel. I have had that issue before also.... Scope base screws as well.

[BillPa]

Pull the rear baffle off then try closing the bolt. If it closes pay close attention where the bolt handle is in the notch in the receiver. It should be centered or close to center with the bolt pulled rearward.

If the bolt still doesn't close without the baffle check to see if the bolt head is bottoming out on the barrel tenon. ( rear of the barrel)

Post what you find out.

Bill

[jonbearman]

You really should reset the headspace when using a new bolt head.Only slight differences can cause big problems.

[thirty06]

jonbearman, how do you set the headspace without a barrel installed?
Chuckbuster, it does sound like the lugs are not far enough forward. Could be bolthead or bolt body on the short end of specs.
Billpa will fix you up.

[Russell D]

if you have a caliper or micrometer I would try measuring the thickness of each of the locking lugs on the old bolt and the new bolt.

if they are the same or close I would take a sharpie and color the back of the lugs where they contact the receiver and open and close the bolt about 5-10 times. The sharpie will be removed from where the lugs are in contact with the reciever. If one as more marker remaining than the other you could lap the lugs a little and that may be enough to correct the issue

[keeki]

I would also measure from the bolthead pin and the rear of the lugs to make sure they are the same

[jibben]

You have the barrel off now. You can see inside. Put some magic marker on the lugs and receiver. See how good a fit you have. If and where it wipes off.

Wondering ... Do these bolt heads still float some? (wiggle in the body) Is there still space for the washer between the lug and baffle?

As Bill mentioned bolt handles, I did have one where the handle rubbed the notch also after changing the handle.

You not running a barrel so that is out, but the heads can hit the barrel if the reamer went to deep. Why you should check all new barrels before you install them. Drop a case in and measure how far it sticks out.

[chuckbuster243]

You have the barrel off now. You can see inside. Put some magic marker on the lugs and receiver. See how good a fit you have. If and where it wipes off.

Wondering ... Do these bolt heads still float some? (wiggle in the body) Is there still space for the washer between the lug and baffle?

As Bill mentioned bolt handles, I did have one where the handle rubbed the notch also after changing the handle.

You not running a barrel so that is out, but the heads can hit the barrel if the reamer went to deep. Why you should check all new barrels before you install them. Drop a case in and measure how far it sticks out.

This bolthead seems allot tighter than the factory. I will have it back in my hand this weekend and going to put some dykem on the bolthead and lugs and see where it rubs. Since I have no barrel on it should be easy to see. As well as take the baffle off and try it then. I am first going to measure the thickness of the head compared to the factory. when I chamber the barrels I ream the chamber till a go gauge sticks out the depth of the head + .005 which is fairly tight for some people. but this gun will be shooting more targets than deer and will stay clean. Hunting guns do better with a few more thou of clearance. Thanks for all the help and as soon as I get it back in my hand this weekend I hope. I will post what I find. Thanks, Matt

[tomme boy]

Lap it in. The new bolt head needs to be burnished.

[chuckbuster243]

UPDATE.... Well I finally got the rifle chambered and ready to go back together. I started by measuring the thickness of the new bolt head compared to the factory. It was .010" thicker so not a big deal. Next I took the baffle off and tried it, no change. So I then put dykem on all the mating surfaces and found that the first corners that touch the lug seat bevel was hitting hard. So I got the dremel and some cratex points and polished and rounded the leading corners on the bolt and the lug seat corner. I cleaned, lubed it and put it back together. The results were great! I put some more dykem on the locking lugs and had 100% contact.... So long story short I got the barrel on and fitted it to the stock and mounted a scope... Its just got to stop raining and get off work in time to see how A 6.5 Grendel in a bolt action will shoot. Thanks for all the help guys. Matt