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2Savage
11-25-2008, 12:25 AM
So i have a model 116 and a model 16 one is a 7 mag and the other 223. I have had both for quite some time now and they are both pre-accutrigger. My question is how do you take the bolt apart because i want to jewel both bolts and then i would like to thoroughly clean both? I read somewhere how to take it apart and it had some nice pictures but i forgot to save the link and i cant find it now. Any help would be great thanks.

BillPa
11-25-2008, 01:32 AM
Here are the parts basically in sequence of assembly.

http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo173/BillPa10/Guns/BoltParts2-1.jpg

1. Remove the bolt assembly screw.
2. Remove the bolt handle and rear baffle.
3. Slide the cocking piece sleeve back.
4. Remove the cocking piece pin.
5 Remove the firing pin assembly.
6 Remove the bolt retaining pin.
7. Remove the bolthead,front baffle and spring washer.

Reassemble in the reverse order.

Bill

2Savage
11-25-2008, 01:37 AM
How difficult is this to do and what tools are required to do this since i have never done it before, and what precautions should be taken? That was also the picture i had previously looked at too so that helps.

BillPa
11-25-2008, 02:15 AM
All you'll need a 1/4" allen wrench. The bolt assembly screw can be...well...snug! I use a vise and a 3/8" breaker bar with a allen socket, but you can lay the bolt flat on a bench or the floor, put the allen wrench in at about a 45* angle and press down or stand on it. What ever it takes. After that its only a matter removing the other parts. Just pay attention to how the stuff comes apart out. Its pretty simple.

Precautions? Nothing more than when you put it back together making sure you put the rear baffle and the bolt head on correctly. If you get the rear baffle on backwards you won't be able to get the bolt in. If you install the bolthead upside down, it will try to eject a case into the side of the receiver instead out the port..

The only other thing you may need to do is let the cocking piece pin at the bottom of the cocking ramp and start the assembly screw a thread or two then move the pin to the top of the ramp in the retention notch and then finish tightening the screw and tensioning the spring.

Bill

2Savage
11-25-2008, 02:29 AM
Well i will try this when i get some free time thanks for the useful info.

2Savage
11-25-2008, 02:50 AM
So has anyone jeweled a bolt like the model 116 or 16 bolt before and if so what worked best for you?

geargrinder
11-25-2008, 09:41 PM
Precautions? Nothing more than when you put it back together making sure you put the rear baffle and the bolt head on correctly. If you get the rear baffle on backwards you won't be able to get the bolt in. If you install the bolthead upside down, it will try to eject a case into the side of the receiver instead out the port..



Or you can do what I did the first time I swapped bolt heads. First time I installed the baffle on backward. Then when putting it all back together with the baffle on correctly, I put the bolt head on upside down. Third time was the charm ;D

All three times didn't take more than five minutes.

TAB
11-25-2008, 09:54 PM
Along with BillPa's note on starting the assembly screw and then loading the firing pin spring, you might also want to unload the firing pin spring before you take the assembly screw out to the last couple of threads. There is still a fair amount of spring pressure on the screw when it is unthreaded and the last two threads are easy to strip the tops off of when it lets go.

TAB

dogface
12-16-2008, 04:07 PM
Also if you unscrew the frring pin assembly the pin protrusion needs to be re-set with some sort of micrometer, I cant remember the dimension off hand but I know it's on this site somewhere...

Redwing
12-16-2008, 06:23 PM
I recently disassembled my 110 bolt completely for thorough cleaning and when I reassembled it I set the pin protrusion to .055". I had gotten this measurement from this site. After I reassembled the gun I popped off 5 primed cases and inspected the primers. The indent was a bit more than a live round because their was no reform pressure in the case. I wanted to check that the firing pin would not puncture the primer if I had erred in my dimension. I fired 5 live rounds after this and the indent was as before disassembled.

All in all I realize that taking the firing pin assembly apart for cleaning in my case was unnecessary.

Just some FYI

DustinZ
12-23-2008, 05:15 PM
When i go to lock my bolt in place it dont go down all the way to where its supposed to.I thought it could have been just the bolt arm needing to be adjusted but i found out when i took it apart it can be adjusted.Do you have any idea wat it can be?

dfrosch
12-23-2008, 06:48 PM
Dustin,

Welcome to the forum.

Try backing off your front action screw. If that works, you may need to shorten that screw a few thousandths. A Dremel will make quick work of it.

Good Luck,
Dana

DustinZ
12-24-2008, 03:36 PM
the action screw?
ok ill try it
but it seems like it wont lock fully
or it was made to be like that
i dont know
but every other gun like mine dont do that

Blue Avenger
12-24-2008, 03:41 PM
the screw hole goes up into the race way where the bolt lugs turn. long screws protrude into the bolt area stopping movement. the rear screw on a front scope mount can also do this a long front base front screw will bottom on the barrel threads leaving the base to wiggle and dent the barrel threads. On scope bases short screws to the front and long to the rear.

bmt
04-10-2010, 06:52 PM
Here are the parts basically in sequence of assembly.

http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/oo173/BillPa10/Guns/BoltParts2-1.jpg

1. Remove the bolt assembly screw.
2. Remove the bolt handle and rear baffle.
3. Slide the cocking piece sleeve back.
4. Remove the cocking piece pin.
5 Remove the firing pin assembly.
6 Remove the bolt retaining pin.
7. Remove the bolthead,front baffle and spring washer.

Reassemble in the reverse order.

Bill



Hi Guys:

I don't log in here much, just lurk.

But I took my model 16 (LH) into the gunshop with a question and they disassembeld the bolt. (LONG STORY)

ANyway, the bolt lokks fine, but does not cock. It cocks on opening, then "uncocks" on closing.

Any tips where the bolt re-assembly failed?

BTW, it shot fine one hour before they dis-assembly. It was extracting but not ejecting. fully dis-assembled cleaned and re-assembled.

Thanks,

BMT

82boy
04-10-2010, 06:57 PM
ANyway, the bolt lokks fine, but does not cock. It cocks on opening, then "uncocks" on closing.
Any tips where the bolt re-assembly failed?
BMT


I know what happened, take the BAS off and turn the bolt handel 180 degrees, They have it on the wrong way.

bmt
04-10-2010, 07:11 PM
Thank you

TnTom
04-10-2010, 09:06 PM
would there be any advantage or disadvantage to unloading the spring before dis-assembly? Would the screw back out any easier?

82boy
04-10-2010, 09:25 PM
would there be any advantage or disadvantage to unloading the spring before dis-assembly? Would the screw back out any easier?


Yes, and no. The screw backs out fairly easy either way, Now when I put the bolt together you will have to decock it to get the first few threads started, then I cock them.

bmt
04-11-2010, 12:46 AM
OK, the thing works now ;D

But, the original problem remains--The Extractor removes the spent case from the chamber but the jector does not eject the case. It just lays there on the tray. I have to tilt the rifle and dump the case off then finish cycling the bolt.

Any tips?

We dis-assembled in order to clean up the innards. We got a lot of gunk out and cleaned the spring on the ejector.

Alas, the problem remains.

Thanks in advance.

BMT