Bolt Disassembly

[lostart]

There's a simple fix, you need a bigger ball. ;D There are other people that may be able to elaborate on what size and where to get it. But I believe that this is the answer.

[Smokey262]

http://savageshooters.com/SavageForum/index.php/topic,21413.0.html

See last post

[bmt]

First of all, let me say that I deal with Savage on a daily basis, and I know all the people who work in customer service. Eric is a really nice guy, but he is new. He handles complaints the way he was trained. He does not work on guns, he only fills orders and tries to help customers that have problems that he is trained to solve. Evidentally the standard procedure for ejection and extraction problems are to replace parts until the problem dissappears. Like I outlined before, the problems that arise with extraction and ejection are a combination of parts with accumulating tolerances. Sometimes a different extractor will fix the problem,with a tolerance of a few thousandths, it's all it make take. The gun manufacturers cannot control the size of the ammo, and if it's not close to mean specs., so the manufactering tolerance in the bolt face diameter has to be accomodating for wide tolerance.

Now for the good news......

Since I have been receiving many calls with this problem, I began to study it closer. I have done many different things on various guns to remedy the problem, which included: making custom extractors, opening up smaller bolt faces to the correct diameter(.223 to .308) , making larger ejector pins,and I even bushed a bolt face to reduce the diameter to correct size.
Then I tryed something yesterday that made sense, and it is very simple. First let me explain.
The spring pocket diameter in the bolt head (under the extractor plate) measures .150". The extractor spring measures .145", but the detent ball only measures .125". When the detent ball is centered in the detent of the extractor by spring pressure, it has .025" clearance between it and the hole dia. This make for side to side slop that will not compress the detent ball and spring. When a cartridge is pressed in the boltface, the extractor,ball and spring can be deflected approx. .0125" before the detent ball compresses the spring. The result is that amount of movement will not spring back to center, essentially leaving the extractor claw not grabbing that much of the case.
Is everyone following me on this?.....the fix is simple, use a bigger ball.
I have some in stock, they measure .140", thus reducing the non-returning slop.
I have tryed this on several here in the shop and had 100% success rate, although there may be a combination of factors out there on a rifle that it may not help, but it sure as h#ll won't hurt. ;D


Thank you! :)

So I guess I need a 'smith? Or a parts guy. ???

Can I do this m'self?

BMT

[Smokey262]

Easy to do yourself

Take the bolt out, put it in a one gallon plastic bag

Put your hands in the bag, slide the extractor out. Ball and spring may come flying out, hence the bag

Reverse procedure to install

Two or three minutes tops the first time you do it

[bmt]

Thanks, no bolt dis-assembly required?

BMT

[82boy]

I use a small flat blade screw driver. I take the blade and lay it flat against the bolt head behind the ejector, I then use the tip to push the extractor and hold pressure on the ball bearing. I then slowly take pressure off the ball bearing, and you should be done.

[bmt]

Thank you. I'll report back with results. :P :-\

The extractor has about 4,000 rounds under its belt.

Maybe I should replace it also.

Does the proprietor of this site sell such things ( tryin' to keep the $$ in the family)

BMT

[82boy]

.
Does the proprietor of this site sell such things ( tryin' to keep the $$ in the family)
BMT


No, they do not, they just sell advertising. One place that does is Sharp Shooter Supply a site sponsor. They also have the larger ball bearings in stock. May save you some time of hunting down the ball bearing, and measuring them.

[bmt]

OK thank you.

I will call them tomorrow.

BMT

[MARK25-06]

the bolt handle is on upside down mark25-06

[cwop]

if you are going to shoot that rifle with expensive brass i would prefer it this way. i took the extractors out of my 6br just for this reason.

bob

[hifly78]

I bought a tatical bolt handle but haven't been able to unscrew the allen bolt to install this yet.

I saw earlier in the post it required lots of torque to undue it. Is the thread direction the same for left and right bolts to disassemble them. For a left handed bolt would I still rotate counter clockwise to unscrew it. I figure I could make a hardwood blocks like a barrel vice inserts to hold onto it. I just don't want to be tighten it going counter clockwise.

Thanks

[geargrinder]

Direction is the same. Lefty loosey.

Don't overthink it or build anything special. Just put the allen wrench in, put it on the floor and step on it.

[hifly78]

Thanks Gear Grinder.

Just used a 1/4" allen on a 3/8 drive 16" breaker bar on a carpet floor and came off really easy. New Handle installed and works great.

I didn't get into the guts of the bolt just removed and reinstalled handle but just in case I also checked the firing pin protrusion. It's real close to 0.055" No change.

Thanks

[bodywerks]

Put it on the floor and step on the wrench? Before I even got that far the bolt handle started slipping...
If I were to put it in a woodcapped vise can I rely on the bolthead or should I clamp the whole bolt?

[BillPa]

Put it on the floor and step on the wrench? Before I even got that far the bolt handle started slipping...
If I were to put it in a woodcapped vise can I rely on the bolthead or should I clamp the whole bolt?


When I get one that is really "Snug" I'll clamp it in a vise (padded jaws) on the bolt handle and bolt body then use a 3/8 drive ratchet or breaker bar with a 1/4 allen socket. Don't worry, you won't break the handle.

Bill

[bodywerks]

I'm not worried about breaking the bolt handle, as the whole reason to disassemble it is to change the bolt handle. Problem is that the bolt handle itself started slipping in relation to the bolt.
Since the bolt head is held in place by a big shear pin I figured it would be a better thing to clamp to?
I'm sure savage used some of their loctite on that assembly screw, too, so a little heat can't hurt either I suppose...

[glock907]

i had some work done on my 110 savage and the bolt was taken apart when i got it back and i tried to use it only half of my repoads fired and none on the winchesters fired. i just took the bolt apart and am comparing it to the picture on this site. it looks like there is something sticking out of the cocking piece. i dont have anything sticking out of mine. what am i missing
steve

[BillPa]

i just took the bolt apart and am comparing it to the picture on this site. it looks like there is something sticking out of the cocking piece. i dont have anything sticking out of mine. what am i missing
steve


Its a mod I do, tap the cocking piece 1/4-28 and install a set screw to lock the cocking piece pin in place and keeps at it 90 degrees to the cocking piece when the sear picks it up or riding over the cocking ramp. It adds another small step in the assembly-disassembly loosening or tightening the set screw, but only takes a second, no big deal.

Bill

[Andyau]

Hi guys,
I tried all the methods above to undo the bolt at the back of the bolt, all I achieved was to strip the inside of the bolt at the back. Any ideas on how I can get it off now?? Will heat help to loosen it ?

Thanks

Andy