Silicone and fishing weight in the stock

[kelbro]

Sounds like the lead weight in the silicone might work like one of those $60 Benelli recoil reducers. Give it a shot and let us know how it works.

[Franklyn]

I made a lead wedge, which can also be bought http://www.sinclairintl.com/gun-parts-tools-accessories/firearm-parts/ar-15-parts/ar-15-buttstocks/martin-ar-15-rear-wedge-weight-prod34319.aspx and then made a wooden frame which was contoured to the inside of the stock. The wood frame had a snug fit inside the stock. I cut the approximate shape of the lead wedge out of the center of the wood frame and then epoxied the lead wedge in the wooden frame. When it's finished the lead wedge has a "picture frame" of wood that will fit inside the stock. What's nice about this is it adds weight to the rifle and tames recoil yet is easily reversible and won't rattle in the stock.

[fatboy-john]

As Im sure a lot of you know; fully floated barrels are not "always" the most accurate. sometimes, it does more good to fully bed a barrel than to float it. I have used silicone < black GE brand> for some time now to help with barrel harmonics on thinner barrels that have issues. The sillicone "dampens" barrel harmonics after a shot, acting just like a silicone bushing on a carbody, or on a motor mount. Ive seen incredible improvements with some rifles.....the best was a rem700 in 308 that had a 22" barrel. Nothing helped until I squirted in the silicone.....then magicly, It started giving sub-moa groups with box and surplus ammo. All your doing is taming the vibrations....think of a tuning fork that is struck, now imagine placing that fork against something as hard as wood. The vibrations are xferred into the wood with great force....now, imagine that same amout of energy resting on a silicone bed.

If you have a weapon that just wont settle down.....try bedding the entire barrel channel in sillicone. If it doesnt work, it will peel right back out....now harm, no foul.

[DanSavage]

As Im sure a lot of you know; fully floated barrels are not "always" the most accurate. sometimes, it does more good to fully bed a barrel than to float it. I have used silicone < black GE brand> for some time now to help with barrel harmonics on thinner barrels that have issues. The sillicone "dampens" barrel harmonics after a shot, acting just like a silicone bushing on a carbody, or on a motor mount. Ive seen incredible improvements with some rifles.....the best was a rem700 in 308 that had a 22" barrel. Nothing helped until I squirted in the silicone.....then magicly, It started giving sub-moa groups with box and surplus ammo. All your doing is taming the vibrations....think of a tuning fork that is struck, now imagine placing that fork against something as hard as wood. The vibrations are xferred into the wood with great force....now, imagine that same amout of energy resting on a silicone bed.

If you have a weapon that just wont settle down.....try bedding the entire barrel channel in sillicone. If it doesnt work, it will peel right back out....now harm, no foul.

I have a friend that had acquired a few rifles from a guy who shot bench rest and one of the rifles had some silicone under the barrel for vibration damping. I thought WTH is that but when I saw the accuracy of the gun I didn't ask any more questions.:suspicion:

[stangfish]

Matt, I have been waiting on a denial from Frank, but it hasn't happened. I didn't really want to know.

[mattm0812]

Matt, I have been waiting on a denial from Frank, but it hasn't happened. I didn't really want to know.

Wait, what? Haha.

[Oaken8]

I packed the butt void on a Choate Varmint with lead fishing weights. Dramatically improved the way the rifle sat on a rear bag but this was an ftr with 30" heavy barrel which is very front heavy.
I used expanding filler but recoil shook it all loose so moved on to silicon.
The extra weight does considerably reduce the recoil.
There is a stock maker here in the UK that adds weight to the adjustable cheekpiece to keep as much of the mass in line with the bore as possible. This helps manage recoil by reducing muzzle flip.

[lal357]

i use the lead fishing weights and duct seal i got from work i was able to jam it in with a pencil and stack the weight in tight . it wolds around anything and wont harden.

[Dennis]

I get to the closest weight I can per the guidelines for the entire rifle.

I use #9 lead shot with expoxy in the butt of the stock. If you add too much, it's easy to drill out the amount needed to correct your total weight.

Reasons: First, it stabilizes the rifle during shooting. Second and probably the biggest reason, it's easy on your shoulder. You can't free recoil the rifle, but it's close.

I have tried the mercury inserts, but I perfer the #9 shot and expoxy.

[missed]

I have an edwards in my BT100 It definately made a long day of shooting more enjoyable. I have one sitting in the safe too it might end up in the new gun. I know why guys try to tame down a rifle, I have a buddy that has a bone disorder and can fracture bones real easy so between a brake, managed recoil loads, the edwards he can shoot the rifle without getting bone fractures.

[mattri]

I put a 26" light varmint barrel on a stevens 200 and the balance was a little too far forward. I took the recoil pad off and added shot until the balance was right and then used fiberglass resin thinned out with acetone to fill in around the shot and keep everything stable. If you do something like this I would recommend using neutral shoe polish or similar as a release agent on the recoil pad and screws so that you can remove it again if you ever want to. Super happy with how it worked out on this rifle, good luck.

[*tim*]

The silicone worked great. I used a 10oz tube of silicone and 3 2.5oz weights so I figure I added about a pound to the rifle. It tammed the recoil a little but it holds a lot better. I just stood the rifle with the stock facing up and put all the silicone in then dropped the weights in and cut about an inch of the stirofoam that came out of it. This filled the entire void. I left the rifle leaning against the wall for a day till it set up then screwed the pad back on

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