Anyone used Duracoat on stainless steel?

[mattri]

Thinking of trying Duracoat flat black on a rifle I'm putting a stainless barrel on. The goal is to have an even finish over the blued receiver and the stainless barrel. Planning to use their Shake N' Spray kit.

From everything I've found so far it seems like a pretty straightforward process, rough up the surfaces a little, clean and degrease and then apply the finish.

The kit includes a degreaser, what would be a good product to use in addition to it, as a pre-cleaner to get most of the grime, grease etc off?


Has anyone done this, how did it go, any tips?

[stomp442]

I've used it. It works great. I use 60 grit sand in my sand blaster then spray off using break free to clear any particles and Degrease everything. I then use a cleaning rod run through the barrel so I can hold onto the rod and rotate the barrel while I apply the coating. Remember to wear rubber gloves through the whole process so you don't get greasy finger prints on your parts.

[mattri]

Thanks for the reply. What do you use to protect the bore of the barrel during sandblasting?

[stomp442]

A golf tee works great. I also tape the threads.

[Shoot-N-Nut]

Media blasting isnt really nessary with DuraCoat, just a good scuff pad to scrub the surface. Degreasing is really the most important part.

[snowgetter1]

I use sandpaper to rough up the surface. If you don't the paint will come off. I also use carb cleaner to degrease/clean then wipe down with a clean paper towel or cloth that won't leave fuze on the metal. Never used the shake and spray though. Bought a cheap compressor and got a good airbrush cheap on ebay.

[BillPa]

Duracoat will work on SS or CM without any problems. Preparation is the key to a good long lasting job.

This is a Mod 7 I brought back from the dead a few years ago. All the metal excluding the bolt body was sprayed with an airbrush using matte black with the max hardener to give it a slight sheen. Prep was with Scotch-Bright pads, a wipe down with lacquer thinner, carb cleaner then compressed air to remove any dust.

http://i33.tinypic.com/3029aqh.jpg

Duracoat takes time to cure, three to six weeks. Don't rush it. After spraying I left it hang and allowed it to cure for a month before I even thought about putting it back together. Start to finish time including refinishing the stock was almost two months. The last I saw it te Duracoat looked like the day I applied it.

Oh, what it looked when the owner brought it in after his refinish job with some kind of black paint and a cheap brush, BA, stock, trigger et al. It was a mess!
http://i37.tinypic.com/210x7no.jpg

Bill

[seanhagerty]

I have recently started playing with coatings, I used the durabake on a ss savage. It came out great. The trick is in the prep.

There is a mix and spray kit that does not require any lengthy hardening time you can get from lauer or midwayusa. I have heard discussion about uncured silicon causing the finish to bubble. So if you have any rtv sealant in the room you are spraying make sure to remove it first.

Sean

[snowgetter1]

You don't really have to wait to handle Dura Coat to long. I usually start to tape a layer off within a few hours after painting. Here is a three colored Striker. Tan was first, gray, then dark brown. Like everyone else has said a roughed but very clean surface is the key. I am a gun paint addict and paint almost every gun/ buddy's guns I can get my hands on.
http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb465/snowgetter1/DSCN3029.jpg

[mattri]

Great replies, thanks. Talked with tech support and they said that they highly recomend blasting stainless steel as it is so hard of a finish. They suggest 120 grit al oxide but said that regular silica sand will work fine too. A buddy has a blastcabinet, when the barrel arrives we'll see if it all fits.

[jsthntn247]

I would reccomend making yourself a cheap oven and using Cerakote or Norrel's molly. Duracoat just doesn't stand up well on metal like it does stocks or plastic.

[Shoot-N-Nut]

I would reccomend making yourself a cheap oven and using Cerakote or Norrel's molly. Duracoat just doesn't stand up well on metal like it does stocks or plastic.

I have a couple AR15's that would disagree with you on that! Both have been wearing Duracoat for a few years now. Both have been carried in the field as varmint rifles, rode behind the seat of the truck for many miles, handled, cleaned and shot well over 20k rounds and the Duracoat is 100% in tact!

Preperation is a big key, you need to scuff the surface (a scotch brite pad works great) and it must be grease and oil free, and watch what kind of degreaser you use some leave a film that can effect the adhesion of Duracoat. And while you dont have to wait that long to put it back together, waiting a few days is better because it gives it time to cure and start to harden. I usally wait atleast 4 or 5 days before i reassemble and usally up to 10 days before I start shooting it. Duracoat will continue to harden over time, Ive tested it with stripper, paint stripper just sits and bubbles on the surface once it is cured!

[stangfish]

....... don't do anything to the coated piece for two weeks so it will cure. Once it gets hard it is G2G.

[mattri]

http://www.savageshooters.com/showthread.php?20254-Ultimate-%28budget%29-Hunter-pics-and-range-report