Mod 10 Pred Max-1 243

[Littlebass]

New here, my first post. Just a couple of observations regarding this 243 which I bought new about 2 weeks ago. I assumed that the 24" bbl w/1-9.25" twist was geared towards heavier 100gr pills. Well not this one. Best groups with factory 100gr load and also 2 different 100gr handloads is about 1.5" at 100yds. However it does seem to love the 70's. First 5 shot group with 75gr factory HP went into .45". Shot two different 70gr Nosl BT handloads into .63" and .71. Still working up some 85 and 90gr loads to try.
Of course before ever mounting my 4-12 VX-2 I had to remove the accustock and crank the accutrigger down to it's lightest setting. Noticed when putting back together that the rearmost trigger guard screw (visible at back of trigger guard) did not tighten completely. Does not come out or move around but it just spins in the hole and never cinched down tight. Also the tang where the safety sits is not sucked up to the stock. Small gap between tang and stock. Didn't notice if it was like this before I removed the stock. Found other threads regarding this same problem on other accustock rifles. Haven't removed the stock a 2nd time because I'm getting such good accuracy with some loads I don't want to change it by screwing with the stock again. I can live with the floated tang. Don't know if I can live with the trigger guard screw loose. Afraid it may come out completely over time and be lost.

[Westcliffe01]

The rear screw is just a wood screw. So it has been overtorqued and stripped. If you try to tighten it as tight as the action screws that will happen every time. Might want to put some wax on the screw, pour some 2 part epoxy down the hole and then screw it back in lightly to get a thread again. The very rear (what you are calling the tang) of the action where the safety is at is supposed to be free floated. If it were to touch you would lose accuracy. And there is a specific sequence to torquing the action screws if your stock has the wedge insert for the recoil lug, which my model 10PC has. I get the impression that the wedge was removed on later accustocks.

[handirifle]

The rear screw is just a wood screw. So it has been overtorqued and stripped. If you try to tighten it as tight as the action screws that will happen every time. Might want to put some wax on the screw, pour some 2 part epoxy down the hole and then screw it back in lightly to get a thread again. The very rear (what you are calling the tang) of the action where the safety is at is supposed to be free floated. If it were to touch you would lose accuracy. And there is a specific sequence to torquing the action screws if your stock has the wedge insert for the recoil lug, which my model 10PC has. I get the impression that the wedge was removed on later accustocks.

+1 The rear tang should not be touching. As for accuracy, I'd surprised if the right powder/bullet combo will not do just as well as the 70's.

[Littlebass]

Thanks for the replies guys. This one has the newer version of the accustock w/o the wedge. I did use my torque driver when reassembling and only tightened to 40in-lbs as per the savage instructions. Guess the rear screw doesn't need to go 40. The instructions from Savage state to reinstall the new accustock just as you would a non accustock but I went in order with the screws anyways and torqued carefully. Still stripped the dadgum thing. I won't worry about the tang and will use epoxy or something to fill the stripped spot. Most all my rifles are dedicated to one game, either varmints or deer/hog size game. This rifle was intended to be used for both with handloads around 70gr for coyote/fox/bobcat and 100gr for deer/hog. No prob with the 70's but I'll keep working on the 100's til I find a powder/bullet combo that it likes.

[Kelly Jackson]

LB - I have had 3 of these model 10 24" 9.25 twist Pedators in 243. (Two of them have been rechambered to 243AI now.)
They all would shoot great out of the box with a stiff load of H4895 under 58gr Vmax and 55gr NBT.
H4350 and 105 Amax over also shot very well. Do not discount the 105 Amax as a deer bullet.

Good luck with your rifle.
Kelly

[Westcliffe01]

There is no need to remove the wood screw from the stock, since it in no way connects to the action. Just leave it be unless you need to remove the trigger guard for any reason. I don't mind the wedge in my stock since it completely eliminates any clearance and in fact pre-loads the recoil lug for best repeatability.

[americanstrat98]

post pictures!!!

[243LPR]

Remove the stripped out screw,break off a wooden matchstick or 2 and drop them in the hole and reassemble.Should tighten it up.

[Littlebass]

Thanks again guys. Savage may wanna think about adding that info about the trigger guard to the manual. Kelly I'll give the 105's a try.

[John Model 10]

LB - I have had 3 of these model 10 24" 9.25 twist Pedators in 243. (Two of them have been rechambered to 243AI now.)
They all would shoot great out of the box with a stiff load of H4895 under 58gr Vmax and 55gr NBT.
H4350 and 105 Amax over also shot very well. Do not discount the 105 Amax as a deer bullet.

Good luck with your rifle.
Kelly
I will second some of Kelly's statements. Mine loves the 105 A-Max, as well as the 100 grain Hornady Interlock SP. But, the 87 V-Max (over H4895 or Varget) is the absolute king in the accuracy department (for me, anyway). However, mine has a very short throat/freebore, so be sure to check yours with any given bullet. After I got that figured out, I have not found a single bullet that this gun would not shoot under MOA.

John