Devcon purchase

[seanhagerty]

I had tried bedding an action on an old bvss stock I had around using JB Weld. It turned out ok, but the real challenge was the fear of the first time bedding job.

We some how I changed that action to a new stock. Then I bought a project gun for the action to mount in the old stock.

Somehow even though both are long actions, the new action doesnt sit right in the bedding. It seems like it is tilted off center in the old bedding job, and the recoil lug sits somewhat forward of the old recoil lug bedding. In short since it doesnt fit right, I get to bed another action!!

I had been looking around for some Devcon, and found it at the usualy outdoor supply places (midway, brownells, etc...). I hate ordering from those places because of the shipping costs. I was out and about for work and found that Graingers carries Devcon. It ended up costing me $49 for a 1 lb tub. (Thank you military discount!)

So, now I have to go through the process of dremeling out the old bedding, taking the trigger off the action and bedding this. I will try to remember to take pictures of this process and post them here.

[stangfish]

Not all devcon is the same. Devcon 10110 is what you want. What you have will probably work though. Good luck and post pictures.

[scythefwd]

here's my question, you remove the trigger and plug up the gaps.. do you dremel out the area the devcon fills in under it or do you make a putty plug to fill that void and keep the trigger path clear?

[seanhagerty]

I did get 10110. so it looks like I got the right stuff, lucky me.
,
I'm not sure about plugging stuff,
I guess I will have to figure that out as I go.

[thomae]

here's my question, you remove the trigger and plug up the gaps.. do you dremel out the area the devcon fills in under it or do you make a putty plug to fill that void and keep the trigger path clear?

You only need to bed as far back as the rear action screw. So there should not be lots and lots of bedding compound in the stock area of the trigger. Use release agent and masking tape on the inside of the stock anywhere you don't want bedding compound to go.

Also, once you have the bedding compound in, and the the action and barrel clamped in he stock, wipe off the overflow goopy drips and turn the rifle upside down to let it dry. This minimizes the amount of dripping on and into the stock from the overflow. Use good release agent (Kiwi shoe wax or paste wax are good, some folks swear by PAM cooking spray.)

Have you read this article: http://www.6mmbr.com/pillarbedding.html?

It explains a lot, and although the pictures are not a Savage rifle, the basic concepts still apply. No bedding material aft of the rear action screw

You will do just fine. I am sure of it.
All the best wishes.

[scythefwd]

thomae.. you mind posting pics of a bedded savage action? I get what you're saying.. but a pic is worth 1000 elequently and explicitly clear words.

[thomae]

Ok,

Here's the 35 Whelen set up prior to bedding with masking tape and release agent on the stock and action. The masking tape under the tang is simply there as a spacer to make sure it is free floated.
When I bedded it, I wiped off as much of the oozing overflow that I could and then let it set upside down clamped with electrical tape.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-jCaa18ihGuM/T_CZlqVJ_uI/AAAAAAAABJg/kN8-2l4MHC4/s800/2012_0625_081431AA.JPG


After bedding was completely dried, but before cleaning up, here's what it looked like: Note that I didn't bed the sides of the stock around the magazine well, and because I dried everything with the stock upside down, there is not much bedding in the trigger area. On the forward and very rear part of the magwell, the bedding you see is a thin skin of bedding that was on the action. It all cleaned up easily, breaking off and smoothing with a rotary tool. Later on I made cherry plugs for the crossbolts and finished the stock using danish oil.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1Q7eZfbc3lM/T_CZp4cD3PI/AAAAAAAABJo/FLsNGHxCYqg/s800/2012_0625_081517AA.JPG

The tape you see in the recoil lug area is what pulled off the side of the recoil lug.
By the way, I used JB weld, and this was my first bedding job. I just went slowly and methodically and it seems to have worked.
I hope this helps.

[scythefwd]

thanks for the pics man!

[BillPa]

A few pics of another job. Its one of those "off brands" :p, but the process and idea is the same for a Savage.

Prep'd ready to go into the goop... The guide screws are used to align the action. Also notice the action is stripped. Its easier to remove the parts than work around them. I made the filler plug in the magazine cutout with Devcon "F" aluminum putty. I use Johnson's paste wax or Kiwi neutral shoe polish for release, no preference of one over the other.

http://i47.tinypic.com/14l24p1.jpg

In the PS, the excess removed with popsicle sticks, Q-Tips and rubbing alcohol.
http://i50.tinypic.com/nl5qtk.jpg

After three days curing time all that's left is the cleanup and drilling the holes out to 5/16" for action screw shank clearance.
http://i45.tinypic.com/15q4spj.jpg

Here is an example of a Savage action prep'd with the pillars installed ready to go. It was for a photo shoot only, I leave the rear pillar it's full diameter and notch it after bedding. I glue the pillars in and bed the action both at the same time, one shot and done.

http://i40.tinypic.com/sn17k8.jpg

The key is to bed the stock to the action, not the action to the stock. In both those examples the action is resting in in the bedding material in it's natural state. Pulling them in with screws or clamps can reproduce the same action to stock error(s) in the bedding your trying to eliminate , why its called "Stress Free" bedding.


Bill

[jglover_81]

When I bed an action I dont usually take the trigger off. I usually wrap it with electrical tape and then cover it with release agent. That way when you are done you have eliminated major Dremel work for trigger clearances

[seanhagerty]

I started the rebedding job on my 110 this afternoon.

http://www.fotolode.com/images/sabersix315/p1030081.jpg

I am just finding my way through it, I know the key points of this are to make sure the bedding does not induce stress on the action, the bedding makes full contact with the action forward of the rear action screw and the rear tang is free floated. With these points in mind am just going to go at it.



I have already bedded this stock to another action, and it was a horrible job!!



Lots of voids and I mounded too much bedding material so that the front action screw would only catch one thread. This old bedding job did not fit the new action very well, it would not allow the recoil lug to contact the old bedding.

http://www.fotolode.com/images/sabersix315/p1030096.jpg

http://www.fotolode.com/images/sabersix315/p1030097.jpg

Also, either I had twisted the old action when I bedded it or the new action screws were off center a tad, because the trigger rubbed on the side of the trigger guard.

http://www.fotolode.com/images/sabersix315/p1030091.jpg

All this boiled down to me having to remove the old bedding. I spent about an hour with a dremel using various bits cleaning the old crap out of there. Having a shop vac handy helped out a lot. I would dremel a bit, then clean up to see what I had done.

http://www.fotolode.com/images/sabersix315/p1030100.jpg

http://www.fotolode.com/images/sabersix315/p1030102.jpg

Once I got done with the dremeling, I drilled a few holes to allow the new bedding to get into the stock wood a bit. This is my stopping point for the night. I will start prepping the action tomorrow.

[seanhagerty]

I took the action apart tonight. It wasnt a difficult thing, all I had to do was remove the blind mag and the trigger assy.
http://www.fotolode.com/images/sabersix315/p1030106.jpg

Once I got this done, I sprayed the action down with brake cleaner to remove any oils that might have been on it. Then I installed some bolts that fit the action screw thread, I have previously removed the heads from them. This will allow them to get pushed down from the top of the stock once I put my bedding material in them.
http://www.fotolode.com/images/sabersix315/p1030108.jpg

I will also be able to remove the action from the stock with them still installed. Once the bedding material is in place it will be real important to NOT remove those screws. It would be bad if I got some of the bedding material in there and it hardened. I can't imagine how difficult it would be to get those screws out then.

The electrical tape is to keep the barrel and tang above the stock, this will keep them both free floated when the job is done. Once I got the tape on I realized my plumbers putty had set up and gotten hard. I also did not have any painters tape to put on in case of over drip, so I am at a stopping point for the night.

Sean

[justin1098]

I used plumbers putty and i don't care for it. Its a bit too soft, I think. It didn't ruin anything but I had to dremel off more after it set. I plan to use modeling clay next time. My thought is that it won't yeild to the devcon as much.

[seanhagerty]

I had thought of using playdoh. Any thoughts on what to use otherwise?

[BillPa]

I will also be able to remove the action from the stock with them still installed. Once the bedding material is in place it will be real important to NOT remove those screws. It would be bad if I got some of the bedding material in there and it hardened. I can't imagine how difficult it would be to get those screws out then.



Those guide screws? They turn out easily.

Shorten them so you only have 6 or so threads left, polish the shanks, apply release then run them in until shanks bottom on the receiver. If you grind flats or slot them you can use a wrench or screwdriver to turn them out after the bedding material cures. The longer you allow the bedding material to cure the easier things will come apart. After they're in the goop I forget they even exist for three days! No, I don't give a squat what they say the working time is!


Plumber's putty got hard? Mix a little vegetable oil in it.

Remember to drill out the holes to 5/16" for action screw shank clearance. You don't want them acting as recoil lugs, its a sure accuracy killer.

Bill

[kevin_stevens]

Once I got this done, I sprayed the action down with brake cleaner to remove any oils that might have been on it.

Why would you care about this? Aren't you getting ready to cover it with wax anyway? :curious:

KeS

[justin1098]

Why would you care about this? Aren't you getting ready to cover it with wax anyway? :curious:

KeS

yeah what he said

[seanhagerty]

Ha! Yes I will be hitting it with wax!! I guess I hit it with brake cleaner just because I could. I took this as an opportunity to clean in placces i could not get to any other time.

Well, the tape sticks to it real well now. I just put the bedding material on the stock and put the action into it. I have found this devcon material is really really really sticky and messy. (Nitrile gloves are worth their weight in gold.) But it is done now.

We will see how it looks tomorrow....

Sean

[kevin_stevens]

Thanks for the info. Good luck!

KeS

[seanhagerty]

Update: its been 5 hours and the action studs will spin freely with a screw driver. I didnt lock those in with the devcon!!


There is still hope this will come apart tomorrow!!