Axis / Edge Stock Reinforcement Made Easy - Take II

[dirtysquared]

I'm a Plumber, so I was looking at what I had, and the 3/4" copper fits almost perfectly in the butt-stock. Copper is pretty light so the bolt and nut trimmed down to what I wanted made a perfect for me counter weight. I hope this can help someone else, at least until Boyd's makes a stock. But all in all, this really tightened up my flexy stock. Its very easy and worth doing for anyone that has time and is adventurous. can anyone tell me how to post pics? I have good pics of the copper and bolt.

[thermaler]

I'm a Plumber, so I was looking at what I had, and the 3/4" copper fits almost perfectly in the butt-stock. Copper is pretty light so the bolt and nut trimmed down to what I wanted made a perfect for me counter weight. I hope this can help someone else, at least until Boyd's makes a stock. But all in all, this really tightened up my flexy stock. Its very easy and worth doing for anyone that has time and is adventurous. can anyone tell me how to post pics? I have good pics of the copper and bolt.Easiest way I've figured is open a photbucket account, upload your photos to a library on there, and then click the "image link" button on the links code generator and post the code into your forum message. I did more or less the same thing you did with your stock on my 308 except I also cut the LOP down a bit in the process, it shoots very well now.

[thomae]

Glad it worked out for ya. I ended up using pieces of sheet lead & old door hinges epoxied in the stock to counter weight it. Door hinges work pretty good. They open up partially & fit right in."Door hinge" is also the only phrase in the English language that rhymes with Orange.
:focus:
can anyone tell me how to post pics? I have good pics of the copper and bolt.Read this and see if it helps: http://www.savageshooters.com/showthread.php?16607-The-ultimate-guide-to-posting-pictures-so-easy-a-caveman-can-do-it!

I use Picasa instead of Photobucket, but the process is basically the same.

[Tack]

"Door hinge" is also the only phrase in the English language that rhymes with Orange.

Somewhat of a stretch there. Maybe in your accent...What have you got for "silver" and "purple"???

Sorry...back on topic, I've got nothing...

[fgw_in_fla]

Ya gotta love this thread.
it's a classic example of "Necessity being the mother of invention".

Some of y'all (Youse guys for the New Yorkers) have come up with some cool variations on a theme here.

Door Hinge rhymes with Orange?

[dirtysquared]

ok here are a few pics
Stock with all thread
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n316/dirtysquared/IMG_0091.jpg

Stock void Fill ins
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n316/dirtysquared/IMG_0092-1.jpg

My Counterweight
http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n316/dirtysquared/IMG_0097.jpg

Ill put the completed job up later on

Fred

[fgw_in_fla]

Looks like a winner.

What type epoxy?

I've tried a few different brands & always come back to Ace's own brand of quick set (5 min) epoxy. Smells bad, works great. JB Weld is a good one, too.
The one time I tried PC-7, I swore never again. ALthough it's a good epoxy its too difficult to work with. Too stiff.

[dirtysquared]

After I just dug through the garbage can....its Permatex Perma-Poxy. It stinks terrible too, but it seems to hold up well.

[gmruehle]

Removed.

[kothomainew]

Thanks, cÃ*ng lúc cÃ*ng hay

[stingray]

Hey Frank...great post. After contemplating a method similar to yours I decided on a different approach. I attached a picatinny rail almost the length of the stock fore end (aprox 10" or 11') attached with 3 evenly spaced screws to underside of the fore end of the stock. It did stop the flex of the fore end but I noticed flexing at the stock sides in the area of the receiver and trigger housing. I decided to remove the long picatinny rail and replace it with a shorter rail screwed just forward of the front action screw making sure not to interfere with the recoil lug. The result is I can mount and use a bi-pod with very little to no flex at all. It's not the optimum location to mount a bi-pod but it works. I find when using support other than a bi-pod it's best to rest the stock as far back as possible to reduce interfering with barrel float.

I choose this approach with the idea of a minimum modification other than drilling a few holes in the stock. If it didn't work I could just fill in the holes with epoxy and be essentially back to square one. I did do the filling in the grip etc to beef that area up.

[thermaler]

Hey Frank...great post. After contemplating a method similar to yours I decided on a different approach. I attached a picatinny rail almost the length of the stock fore end (aprox 10" or 11') attached with 3 evenly spaced screws to underside of the fore end of the stock. It did stop the flex of the fore end but I noticed flexing at the stock sides in the area of the receiver and trigger housing. I decided to remove the long picatinny rail and replace it with a shorter rail screwed just forward of the front action screw making sure not to interfere with the recoil lug. The result is I can mount and use a bi-pod with very little to no flex at all. It's not the optimum location to mount a bi-pod but it works. I find when using support other than a bi-pod it's best to rest the stock as far back as possible to reduce interfering with barrel float.

I choose this approach with the idea of a minimum modification other than drilling a few holes in the stock. If it didn't work I could just fill in the holes with epoxy and be essentially back to square one. I did do the filling in the grip etc to beef that area up.Nice idea--any pics?

[fgw_in_fla]

Nice idea--any pics?


Yeah.... What he said. We need pics on that. You may be on to something.

[stingray]

I'll snap a couple pics and hopefully I can figure out this photo-bucket thing.

[fgw_in_fla]

I'll snap a couple pics and hopefully I can figure out this photo-bucket thing.

Piece 'o cake....
If I can figure it out, anybody can. Just follow the instructions / prompts. And be careful you don't accidently upload the honeymoon photos you've been saving.

[stingray]

Here they are (I think). I am more firearms savvy than computer savvy. Hope they came through. If not I'll try again.

http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/a547/stingray3133/DSCF1786_zps8ba48212.jpg
http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/a547/stingray3133/DSCF1789_zps790e655a.jpg
http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/a547/stingray3133/DSCF1793_zps2097fcd6.jpg

[DocNugent]

First, let me add my thanks and congratulations on this excellent how-to!

I also have an observation and a question:

- As to the weight issue, aluminum tubing is almost as rigid as solid aluminum, but lighter because it is hollow. Both are much lighter than steel rod or all-thread. I learned from several fiberglass car body part projects that what's inside the epoxy need not be that strong by themselves - fabricators often use such materials as paper rope and cardboard tubes - because it's the structure, not the material that is important. If you think about it, the stiffness of a fiberglass panel is created by very thin threads of glass (structured by being woven together)! As a result, I'd expect something as light as drinking straws to work well.

- For my shopping list, how many ounces (total) of the 5-minute epoxy is needed to complete the whole job?

[fgw_in_fla]

I've used the Ace Hdwre's own brand. There's 1.25oz. per tube x 2 tubes per package (resin & hardener). All total I used 2 packages of the epoxy (4 tubes) & had some left over - about 1/2 tube of each.

Personally, I prefer the JB weld. Don't know why.... I guess I have it in my empty head that epoxy shouldn't be transparent.
I've used steel rod & alum rod. I really don't see much difference in weight. Since my Axis rifles all have truck axle sized barrels, the weight of the rods are not a concern to me....
Frank in Fla

[The Toolman]

"Carefully remove the barreled action so as to not let the pin fall out of the trigger assembly."

I did mine today that I just got, an didn't see any pin that could fall out, unless it did an I missed it somehow. Does the new axis .223's not have this pin, or is it now made to not fall out. The only pin I had out was the trigger pin with the e clip on it.

I guess a small pic with an arrow would help me out. Sorry, I do machine work, but I don't know what to do on this deal.... Look for one on floor or put it back together as is. UPDATE--Everything seems to work fine since I changed spring an set new screw for trigger stop.


On another note, I don't have the same grease that comes on the trigger mech. It looks like a graphite base type grease. But I do have some white synthetic waterproof marine grease thats slick as heck. Would that be alright in its place?


Thanx,
Ron :usa2:

[fgw_in_fla]

"Carefully remove the barreled action so as to not let the pin fall out of the trigger assembly."

I did mine today that I just got, an didn't see any pin that could fall out, unless it did an I missed it somehow. Does the new axis .223's not have this pin, or is it now made to not fall out. The only pin I had out was the trigger pin with the e clip on it.

I guess a small pic with an arrow would help me out. Sorry, I do machine work, but I don't know what to do on this deal.... Look for one on floor or put it back together as is. UPDATE--Everything seems to work fine since I changed spring an set new screw for trigger stop.


On another note, I don't have the same grease that comes on the trigger mech. It looks like a graphite base type grease. But I do have some white synthetic waterproof marine grease thats slick as heck. Would that be alright in its place?


Thanx,
Ron :usa2:

I'm wondering....
maybe that's why mine fell out. It's missing the clip. I'll have to remind myself to write a note to remind myself to look & see if it's there.
I can't recall exactly but, I thought I remembered a pin holding the trigger assembly in place.
It really sucks boloney skins getting old. Memory is the 2nd thing to go.
Or is it the 3rd?...
I forget.