Axis / Edge Stock Reinforcement Made Easy - Take II

[Ron Smith]

Hey guys, got tied up with other stuff and just got around to installing the Rifle Basix trigger. Man what a big difference, the trigger feels great, still too cold here to go to the range. I'll probably install the new barrel before I get a chance to shoot the original, the barrel vise and action wrench came last week.

[vwgn]

Nice work. I just picked up a 308 axis w/ 20" threaded barrel for target shooting mostly but some hog and other hunting. Like others, I am concerned about the weight for hunting purposes, but had a thought. I am a VERY novice rifle shooter, and this is my first "real rifle" outside of a savage 22 semi auto plinker and a sks w/16" barrel, so I am learning as I go on all these tricks etc. Wouldnt it be feasible/pretty much the same effectiveness to use the epoxy in say every other cavity along the barrel channel? This way the rods were still bonded to the stock, but in theory you cut half the weight added by the epoxy, plus what you shave off from floating the barrel? I realize its going to have 100% effectiveness with your method of solid epoxy, but the loss of rigidness from the rods being connected at the ends and in the middle should be negligible, and save at least 1 lb I would think. Thoughts? Like I said I am NO gunsmithing expert and the most ive done previously is take my guns down to "field stripped" for a thorough cleaning.

[plutonium]

say boss i am a newbie and have a savage axis 30-06 ss... i have done some reading on the firearm and was just going to ask how to reinforce the plastic stock....great way to do the forend and i wil do mine your way.. i was thinking about the stock butt reinforcement.....wonder if fiberglass would work by filling the stock with it in layers wonder if it would effect the plastic and i know it gets a little hot while it cures... and i guess bondo is out of the question but that epoxy you are speaking of might work great also thought of filling it with simple silicone gel sure would remain flexible....dont forget now i am a newbie but i am mechanicaly inclined and understand physics to a certain point great thinking boss im also thinking of buying another factory stock and customizing it keep the forend the same cutting of the rear but end to a certain point and fitting a magpul adjustible stock.. possibly using rods and ablank load of fiberglass to mold the magpul mount in the cut stock just have to wonder what it would look like... just a thought please reply

[thorshammer]

I've been looking for this thread and CA Turkey Huntsman located for me. One thing I've noticed is that the inside of the wrist on my new Savage Axis .243 in lefthand does'nt look anythng like Franks. The wrist on mine has No flex whatsoever. Maybe Savage stiffened up some.

[Ron Smith]

I finally got a chance to shoot my Axis before I swapped barrels.....what bullets will stabilize in a factory 9T barrel? I tried everything from 55gr - 75gr bullets and the smallest group I was able to achieve was about 1.5" @ 100 yards shooting off a mechanical rest and rear sandbag. These same loads will produce under .75 MOA in my 8T .223. So as soon as I can find some time I will give my new 20 Practical barrel a try. I should have tried swapping my own barrels sooner, that was easy.

[Tempest]

My son just shot Hornday 68 grain .223 last weekend and we got .68 MOA at 400 yards, off a bipod. So far, that's been the most accurate ammo in my .223 Axis.

[fgw_in_fla]

Hey Ron Smith -
tell me more about that Basix trigger set up.

Things like cost & any other particulars that you think might be important. I have one I simply can not make happy. I believe it's time to change it out so I don't need a pry bar to pull it.
Already did all the old familiar tricks & mods.... It's toast.

[thermaler]

I don't know that weapon--I never buy 223 unless it's an AR. But my Axis 308 was a mediocre shooter with factory until I started reloading--and I can get it down to under .5 MOA fairly easily with a little diligent work. I suspect the same would be the case with your weapon.

[thermaler]

Hey Ron Smith -
tell me more about that Basix trigger set up.

Things like cost & any other particulars that you think might be important. I have one I simply can not make happy. I believe it's time to change it out so I don't need a pry bar to pull it.
Already did all the old familiar tricks & mods.... It's toast.Heya Frank--you say you have a Basix installed and it's not working?

[fgw_in_fla]

No....
I have an older 110 (circa 1997 +/-) and lately the trigger has gotten a little harder to pull. I've performed all the old favorites - polised sear / trigger, .040" wire spring, adjust, etc - and I think its worn. Just doesn't feel light like it used to. This has happened over a period of about 2 months of every Sunday use.

Maybe I should have clarified what I wrote. It does look like I have a RB that's not happy, doesn't it?...

[rjmorel]

How do you take off the butt pads on the axis ?
I just got mine a few weeks ago and the wrist area has been strengthened like thorshammer in another post but still a little different in the width of holes . There may be several mods done to the stock mold during production that they worked in around production demands and it took them several tries to get it to their liking.
Maybe we should post some pics and put them all in one reply so we can see???? rj

http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg186/rjmorel_bucket/IMG_0003_zps655e6535.jpg

[thermaler]

No....
I have an older 110 (circa 1997 +/-) and lately the trigger has gotten a little harder to pull. I've performed all the old favorites - polised sear / trigger, .040" wire spring, adjust, etc - and I think its worn. Just doesn't feel light like it used to. This has happened over a period of about 2 months of every Sunday use.

Maybe I should have clarified what I wrote. It does look like I have a RB that's not happy, doesn't it?...I think the RB is the best thing going for the Axis--short of getting an accutrigger in.

[fgw_in_fla]

How do you take off the butt pads on the axis ?
I just got mine a few weeks ago and the wrist area has been strengthened like thorshammer in another post but still a little different in the width of holes . There may be several mods done to the stock mold during production that they worked in around production demands and it took them several tries to get it to their liking.
Maybe we should post some pics and put them all in one reply so we can see???? rj

http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg186/rjmorel_bucket/IMG_0003_zps655e6535.jpg

What difference would it make?.... They all suck. All you can do is wahtever you can conjure up for reinforcement.
Butt pad removal....
Screw on the bottom swivel point), square thingie on top. Remove screw, try not to loose. Gently press square thingie while gently pushing it towards the open end of the stock. Don't force it or it'll snap off.
DOn't ask me how I know that....


Therm...
Thanks for the input.

[CA Turkey Huntsman]

Frank, on the forend you mentioned only being able to drill 3/8" deep into the plastic post at the recoil lug. Was the recoil lug inserted when you were drilling? Perhaps you had drilled all the way through the plastic and got to the lug itself?

Thanks,
-Dennis

[thermaler]

Frank, on the forend you mentioned only being able to drill 3/8" deep into the plastic post at the recoil lug. Was the recoil lug inserted when you were drilling? Perhaps you had drilled all the way through the plastic and got to the lug itself?

Thanks,
-DennisFolks--I'm no expert--BUT DO NOT DO ANYTHING that effects the positioning of the recoil lug in the slot bed! Any misalignment/movement in the lug can translate to the trigger assembly not engaging properly and result in possible AD--it's happened to me!

[fgw_in_fla]

Frank, on the forend you mentioned only being able to drill 3/8" deep into the plastic post at the recoil lug. Was the recoil lug inserted when you were drilling? Perhaps you had drilled all the way through the plastic and got to the lug itself?

Thanks,
-Dennis

No it wasn't the lug. The holes drilled are well below the lug. The Axis stocks I've traumatised all were drilled until I hit something a little harder than what I was drilling. It wasn't the lug. Just harder plastic? maybe harder plastic for the lug to sit in?

I really don't know. I just drilled until I needed to push harder on the drill, then stopped. That was deep enough to epoxy the rods.

[fgw_in_fla]

Folks--I'm no expert--BUT DO NOT DO ANYTHING that effects the positioning of the recoil lug in the slot bed! Any misalignment/movement in the lug can translate to the trigger assembly not engaging properly and result in possible AD--it's happened to me!

Alright.... Just becauase of my Polish heritage you don't have to make fun of me......

The lug never comes out whilst modifying the stock.
Unless it falls out, in which case, I've never had that happen....

Thanks for the heads up, anyway.

[thermaler]

Alright.... Just becauase of my Polish heritage you don't have to make fun of me......

The lug never comes out whilst modifying the stock.
Unless it falls out, in which case, I've never had that happen....

Thanks for the heads up, anyway.Fun of you? Heck no--more like fessing up to my own knuckleheadedness.

[dirtysquared]

Frank,
I also did the mod with the rods. I used all-thread and drilled them a hair small. I then coated them in epoxy and got them threaded/epoxied into the stock. I also Epoxied them in like you showed in your Post. The only thing I did different is I Filled in most of the voids in the front of the stock with epoxy. It has seemed to tighten it up. I also made a counter-weight out of a piece of 3/4" copper and a bolt with a Ny-lock Nut. Its epoxied nice and tight into the butt end of the stock. I'd Love to share the pics with all of you guys, but I have no Idea how to upload them on here.

Fred

[fgw_in_fla]

Glad it worked out for ya. I ended up using pieces of sheet lead & old door hinges epoxied in the stock to counter weight it. Door hinges work pretty good. They open up partially & fit right in.