My other Savage....

[Lt.Dan]

This is my model 10FCPHS. I enjoy this rifle as it holds .5 MOA groups at 300 but I have a big issue with it. A lot of the time it is hard to eject the spent case, I chamber it fire and when I try to eject it the bolt does not want to pull back. Granted I shoot handloads and they are all trimmed to spec and loaded moderately but they chamber and fire great just don't want to eject. I polished the chamber with bore brushes bronze wool and JB bore paste to almost a mirror shine and I still have the issue. The brass coming out looks fine. Any insight? Thanks.

How I got it. It was "used", zero rounds through it but someone went nuts with the krylon.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c179/militarybuilt/IMG-20120302-00028jpg.jpg
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c179/militarybuilt/District5-20120301-00026jpg.jpg
Paint halfway stripped.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c179/militarybuilt/District5-20120307-00034jpg.jpg
Nightforce NXS gone and replaced with a Leupold Mark 4 LRT.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c179/militarybuilt/IMG-20120519-00150jpg.jpg
Extended mag.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c179/militarybuilt/IMG-20120519-00151jpg.jpg
Before the range day.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c179/militarybuilt/b8b29ea3.jpg
After. These are 300yd groups.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c179/militarybuilt/31e657aa.jpg
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c179/militarybuilt/4d423ee6.jpg
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c179/militarybuilt/77d74d2d.jpg

[thomae]

Sounds like you have a primary extraction problem.
To see if this is your problem, put a shim, such as an old credit card between the rear baffle and the bolt handle where they are angled and should cam against each other. If this solves your problem, you either need a new bolt handle, or need to fix it by installing some sort of shim. Somewhere there is a link about drilling and installing a setscrew to act as a spacer.

Do a search for "primary extraction" and you will hopefully see that others have the same issue and some of the possible solutions.

[Lt.Dan]

I did the search and came up with a post of yours I think that had a link to a youtube video of it. That is it exactly. Now where do I get a new bolt handle besides Savage? I didn't find the set screw one though. Thanks big time.

[BillPa]

I didn't find the set screw one though. Thanks big time.

Its a post I made years ago. I'm not saying its the right way, or the best way or you should even try it. I'm only saying it served it's purpose on two actions and they're both working today.

A better way to check and determine how much additional PE you need, place a shim on both sides between the baffle and bridge to keep the baffle square to the bridge. After you determine how much you need then you can easily set the screw depths to the amount of shim used on both sides and use blue Locktite to secure them

If down the road you replace the bolt handle and/or baffle simply remove the screws otherwise you may run into the opposite condition, too much PE.

http://www.savageshooters.com/content.php?144-Fixing-Weak-Primary-Extraction

Bill

[thomae]

Another thought: It might be possible to grind or turn down the inside surface of the bolt handle so that it sits on the bolt body slightly closer to the muzzle end, thereby reducing the distance between the two ramps (rear baffle and bolt handle) that cam together to produce primary extraction. If that does not make sense, let me know and I'll try to generate a picture or diagram.

It's just a thought, and perhaps someone else can explain if it is a bad idea.

[BillPa]

Yeah, that's one way, but you have to watch the bolt handle has clearance in the notch in the receiver when its closed. The other problem, the bolt handle has recesses for the tabs on the rear of the body, so you would have to shorten them also otherwise the BAS would seat on the tabs instead of the bolt handle.

That was my first idea before installing the set screws in the baffle, but then I remembered I'm lazy and decided drilling/tapping two holes was a lot easier and quicker. In reality all I did was install two adjustable shims to locate the baffle in relationship to the bridge and bolt handle without having to permanently modify anything.

Bill

[handirifle]

I'd make SURE the screw holding the bolt handle on (the BIG one in the very rear of the bolt itself) is completely tight. Not sure but I think yours is an allen head. I doubt you can overtighten it. Mine loosened up once and did the exact same thing. It might only be one turn but that's enough.

[thomae]

I'd make SURE the screw holding the bolt handle on (the BIG one in the very rear of the bolt itself) is completely tight. Not sure but I think yours is an allen head. I doubt you can overtighten it. Mine loosened up once and did the exact same thing. It might only be one turn but that's enough.Good call. Also, when you crank down on the BAS, instead of simply holding on to the stock (which then puts the torque stresses on the action screws), position the allen wrench so that you can squeeze the allen wrench and bolt handle to toghten. That way all your force goes into tightening the BAS.
Also, Bill, thanks for your feedback on my Bolt handle idea.

[Lt.Dan]

Yea the BAS is tight, I put a shim in between the baffle and receiver to hold it closer to the bolt handle and it ejected perfectly. I'm going to fashion a shim to go there once I'm don't moving up north and I have sme time on my hands. Thanks for the help everyone.

[ellobo]

A short while ago Fred Moreo warned us that some bad bolt handles installed had a problem that Savage corrected by machinng off the part that gives primary extraction when you lift the bolt handle. You might want to check and see if that is the problem. A new bolt handle will cure the problem.

El Lobo