Savage Model 11 .308 bolt sticking

[Kraze]

I ordered my first bolt action rifle about 6 months ago (although this isn't my first experience with a bolt rifle), a Savage Model 11 Trophy Hunter XP in .308. No matter what ammo I use, or how well I clean and lube it up, the bolt is incredibly difficult to pull up after firing. This happens with all ammo I've tried, and I've gone through a couple hundred rounds by now.

Now I know it's going to be more difficult to lift the bolt after you fire it due to the pressure and the fact that it has to cock again, but this feels like it definitely requires more effort than it should. After you get the bolt handle up, it slides back smoothly though, and extracts fine. When dry firing it's not nearly as difficult, and I can actually keep it to my shoulder and cycle the bolt then.

Any ideas what could be happening?

[ellobo]

This is typical for many Savages out of the box. It's what is called a "timing issue" Go to this website home page and look for "Trueing and timeing", a post by Fred Moreo, the Savage expert. He tells you what is needed to make a superb rifle out of a sows ear. Very informative. He does the work and has a reputation for the best in the business.

El Lobo

[Mach2]

This is typical for many Savages out of the box. It's what is called a "timing issue" Go to this website home page and look for "Trueing and timeing", a post by Fred Moreo, the Savage expert. He tells you what is needed to make a superb rifle out of a sows ear. Very informative. He does the work and has a reputation for the best in the business.

El Lobo

Ellobo are you talking about head spacing? That's what his proglem seems like. Doesn't he need a set of go, no go gauges? Sounds lke he has to tight of a head spacing. Just curious. I learn from these type problems posted in here too.

[thomae]

Check your forward action screw...loosen it a bit to see if it is binding. It does not sound like it is...but can't hurt to check.
Contact Savage before your warrantee expires. If the issue is serious and it were my rifle, In would consider sending the rifle back for warrantee repairs before I start spending my own money.

[BillPa]

[COLOR=#800080]Check your forward action screw...loosen it a bit to see if it is binding.

...and not to mention the rear screw in front scope mount. Its drilled-tapped through into top lug recess. If the screw is a little long its another "gotcha" at times.

And I've mentioned this before, check that the ejector pushes back at least flush with the bolt face. If its hanging up short it drags on the casehead and can also cause stiff bolt lift on fired brass. It may or may not leave a 90* rub mark on the casehead.

Bill

[Kraze]

Thanks for all the info guys! I'll be doing some research and trying to check out all of the suggestions.


...and not to mention the rear screw in front scope mount. Its drilled-tapped through into top lug recess. If the screw is a little long its another "gotcha" at times.

And I've mentioned this before, check that the ejector pushes back at least flush with the bolt face. If its hanging up short it drags on the casehead and can also cause stiff bolt lift on fired brass. It may or may not leave a 90* rub mark on the casehead.

Bill

I checked the rear screw on the front scope mount, it doesn't seem to protrude into the lug recess. However, the ejector pin looks like it's not quite flush with the bolt face. I looked at a couple of spent cartridges and noticed a spot on most where the rear rim is marred, but I'm not sure if this is normal, or if it's the 90* rub mark you are referring to. I'll see if I can get some pictures to help explain more.

[thomae]

I forget which way the firing pin spring is wound, but if the end of the FP spring is jagged, (as can be from the factory), it could be catching on the BAS and be resisting the lift. You might want to disassemble the bolt and sand/stone/buff the end of the spring so that there is less friction at that contact point.

[BillPa]

However, the ejector pin looks like it's not quite flush with the bolt face. I looked at a couple of spent cartridges and noticed a spot on most where the rear rim is marred, but I'm not sure if this is normal, or if it's the 90* rub mark you are referring to. I'll see if I can get some pictures to help explain more.

Rub marks from an ejector,if any, will be on the caliber stamping or very close to it and circular due to the bolt rotation, kind of like drawing with a compass. If you suspect the ejector may be the problem remove it and fire a few rounds and see the the hard lift disappears.

Bill