Slop in Action taken out after truing?

[Peter_Kirch]

I have alot of slop as well as some left over burrs and stuff from machining or wear in a short action I am having T&T by Fred at SSS scheduled for Jan. The lugs also fit a little loose. Will he smooth up the bolt rails and tighten up the slop? If not do you know if he will sleeve the bolt to tighten it up?

Thanks
Peter

[82boy]

Peter,
You may want to read this.
http://savageshooters.com/SavageForum/index.php/topic,4899.0.html
That is what he does.
He straighten the action, this may take a bit of the slop out but it will not take it all out. The Savage action is a mass produced action and it has large tolerances, it is just a fact. Fred can do other work you will have to call him, but it will come at an additional price. You may want to get a Dave kiff bolt body to tighten up the action. This bolt body is around $125 bucks and it needs the back half turned down to work. http://www.pacifictoolandgauge.com/index.htm

[Peter_Kirch]

I understand it isnt going to be the most solid feeling action out there. but my 110 i bought used feels much tight than this. the short action is even a good 6 years newer than the 110. The 110 was in 2001 and the short action was in 07. I just don't really want ALOT of slop but some is fine for me.

[Toyoda]

Mine was a little better. Most notable difference was how much smoother the lockup was.
I still haven't had a chance to shoot the rifle to see the accuracy difference.

[Peter_Kirch]

Yeah I think even with a little polishing of the bolt rails itll make all the difference

[savageboy]

When I had 2 T&T'd they were slightly better "Slop" wise. Everything else was awsome. I am doing a 6brx on a T&T'd action from Fred now. This time, I purchased a PTG oversized fluted bolt ($98 ). It makes the action feel just about like a custom in that it removes just about all "wiggle" when the bolt is the whole way back. It may not be worth the extra $ to some people, and really to me prior to this, it wouldn't have been. I just wanted this this time and got it!

[Dirk]

Mine was a little better. Most notable difference was how much smoother the lockup was.
I still haven't had a chance to shoot the rifle to see the accuracy difference.


What on Earth makes you think that a smoothed up action will improve accuracy?

If your barrel was accurate before, it will still be accurate.

There may be a 'perception' in your head that it will be more accurate, so you do better shooting with it, but that part is not mechanical. ;D

[Smokepole]

The Kiff bolt body was about $98 when I got it as well. It tightened things up a lot. It doesn't have to be turned down or modified in any way if you get the proper old style cocking pin. If you wish to use your current cocking pin from a stepped bolt, then yes, it will have to be turned. Turning it reduces the bearing surface of the bolt though, so you'll be adding slop back in somewhat.

[sharpshooter]

Most of them still need to be turned to accomodate the rear baffle. The factory bolt bodies run a consistant .695" in diameter, and depending which baffle is used(old or new) anything over about .698 needs to be turned for the baffle to fit.

[Smokepole]

Ah ha. Tis true. I just used a small piece of sandpaper to hone out the flash flaws/burrs on the collar to cure mine. It fit over a .7015 bolt. But, I have since turned that bolt down to about .699.

[efm77]

For accuracy though it doesn't really matter how sloppy the bolt is when you're moving it back and forth in the action as long as the lockup is tight. Seems like some play in the bolt travel would allow for some dirt in extreme conditions and it still be able to function.