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View Full Version : Stevens 200 Bolt Question



Jeg181420
07-20-2012, 06:45 PM
Hi folks, first post here. I have a Stevens 200 in 223 that I bought a while back. Shoots pretty decent but i now have some extra money that I want to use to make it better and slowly turn it into a precision gun, maybe even change it over to 308. But for right now, I have a Rifle Basix trigger on order and I also purchased a tactical bolt handle and fluted bolt from SSS. Upon closer inspection of my existing bolt assembly, I noticed something that I never noticed before. Without having any of my own pictures, I will do my best to explain and describe what I see. When the bolt is in the closed position, the square/ rectangular part of the end of the bolt is exposed. I looked up the schematic on Brownells website and the part that I think I am referring to is called the front baffle. On 99 % of all the other Savages I have seen, this part is not visible when the bolt is closed, so I am assuming that on this particular model that I have, it is longer than others. Doesn't really bother me other than the fact that it looks a little weird and will look even worse once I get the fluted bolt. Anybody know what I am talking about here and does anyone know if its possible to get a shorter one? I know some of you might think its silly that I'm worried about something so minor and aesthetic but to each his own I guess. Here are a few pics I found online that show what I'm talking about. Thanks in advance

Like mine
http://www.myhostedpics.com/images/taylorce1/picture0100.jpg

Not like mine
http://picturearchive.gunauction.com/282134825/9496742/100_0276.jpg_thumbnail1.jpg

Not like mine
http://www.biggamehunt.net/graphics/photos_talltales/stevens200_1.jpg

Willoughby
07-20-2012, 06:52 PM
its the longer 223 baffle showing
no other caliber will have it
it shortens the throw on the bolt

thomae
07-20-2012, 06:59 PM
It looks like what you have is a .223 front baffle. They are used in .223 bolts to limit how far back the bolt is pulled when cycling.
I have one in my .223 Axis, but the front baffle is rotated around so the long side is on the inside and not visible when the bolt is closed.

82boy
07-20-2012, 07:02 PM
Willoughby, hit the nail on the head.
The front baffel on a 223/204 is longer, this is done to shorten the bolt travel. You can use a standard front baffel if you wish. Perosnaly I like the 223 front baffel, I use then on my other certridges such as 6br, 6PPC, 6x47L, and so forth. I also use them on long actions to short up the bolt travel, works well with my 7WSM.

Jeg181420
07-20-2012, 07:13 PM
Thank you to all for the very fast responses. I tried rotating the baffle to the other side as thomae had suggested but the bolt doesnt fit back into the action that way. There seems to be a slight cutout on the side that its currently on, only allowing it to go back in this way. Since they're only about 5 bucks I will order a shorter one and go from there. If I feel the bolt travel is too long, I will put the old one back in but I'm not hunting or needing to take quick follow up shots so I don't think it will be an issue. I just think it would look much better with the fluting on the bolt to not have it sticking out like that. Another thing I meant to ask is has anyone used a Stockade bolt lift kit and if so is it worth the the 10$? Some say it works wonders others seem to say it doesnt change anything. My bolt is still a bit heavy even after around 300 rounds.

82boy
07-20-2012, 07:30 PM
Another thing I meant to ask is has anyone used a Stockade bolt lift kit and if so is it worth the the 10$? Some say it works wonders others seem to say it doesnt change anything. My bolt is still a bit heavy even after around 300 rounds.

The gunk button, (AKA bolt lift kit) was originaly thought of by Fred Moreo of SSS, it does help. Is it worth the $10 bucks that Stockade sells it for? HECK NO! You can make one for next to nothing. All you need is a piece of 38 special or 357 mag brass, a small amount of epoxie, and a ball bearing. Most times a piece of 38 brass can be picked up at the range, Most bike shope keep spare bearings around and they would be happy to give you a hand full, and most dollar stores sell epoxie for a buck. You can make one for around $1 is you do it that way. heck I am willing to bet if SSS is doing your bolt give them a call I would be willing to bet that would sell you one at a much cheaper cost.