Some of my Primers Not Seated Flush

[beartooth91]

Ever since getting back into reloading and shooting; I've had problems with getting CCI primers to seat flush. Today, I loaded up some 7mm-08 and had 3 or so where the primer isn't quite flush with the case head. Hard to see, but, I can feel it with my finger. I'm using an old Pacific single stage press. I use lots of pressure on the ram handle, and I'm thorough with primer pocket cleaning, but, some are just a touch above flush. I realize its now time to go with a hand priming tool. My stupid question is can I go ahead and try to shoot these (as I've done before) or should I pull the bullet and redo? My main concern is a slam fire as I close the bolt. What's the best way(s) to get an unfired primer out?

Thanks

[rjtfroggy]

Same way you would remove a spent primer. If it were me I would just shoot them and start over.

[6mmBR_Shooter]

If you're concerned about it you could pull the bullet, dump the powder, and then pull the trigger on the primed case to make it bang.

Or mark those three and slowly close the bolt on them when you go to shoot instead of slamming it home.


I bit the bullet bought the RCBS universal hand primer and have loved it. I like the fact that it uses no shellholders.

[Trent]

"Slightly" above the case head isn't going to result in a slamfire. It takes a lot more than that to get a primer to go off.

Well... what do you mean by slightly? A couple thousandths? Not an issue if that is it.

You don't sound like you do a lot of high volume reloading. I'd say take a look at the Lee Hand Primer. They are inexpensive and work well for the task of hand priming. I am now using the Hornady hand primer and like it a lot. Probably the best priming system for feeling priming action (in my opinion) is the RCBS bench mounted priming tool. Downside to it is that you are stuck at the bench. I like to take my hand primer and sit in front of the boob-tube and do my priming.

[82boy]

Optimal primer seating is with the primer slightly below flush, withthe anvil aginst the case. (Not crushed.)
It is hard to get any feel when seating primers with a press, this is why I would recamend aginst using such a method. Cleaning primer pockets is nice, but it doesn't square the primer pocket up. I recamend using a primer pocket uniformer, and forget using any cleaning tool.
https://www.possumhollowproducts.com/ADDITIONAL_PRODUCTS.html
This would ensure that your primers are seated at the same depth.

A few other things not mentioned is what type of brass you are using, some brands the primer pocket gets smaller with use, Norma is one that comes to mind, also some brass starts out with the primer pockets cut too tight, Hornady comes to mind. (This is why I will not use Hornady brass, when the primer pocket tool gets caught up in every piece, it is hard to make it right.) As far as primer seating this is a VERY crutial step, as ingnigtion problems can cause havic on accuracy. I also find that CCI primers are a slight bit bigger than other primers. It may be that the primer is not bottoming out but getting wedged in, again a primer pocket uniformer will take care of this problem.

last off if you looking for a handprimer, and you want the best money can buy I HIGHLY recamend the 21 centry tool. http://www.21stcenturyshooting.com/Priming_Tool_Round.php
For the cost of $70 bucks it will make anything else on the market look stupid.

[beartooth91]

I appreciate all the replies, folks. Right after I first posted; I ordered the Lee Auto Primer from Midway. I come to use more and more Lee stuff (I love their collet dies).
FWIW, the brass is Winchester. I've had the problem with both my 7mm-08 and .243. I've never used any other primer than the CCI-200's and 250's. I had it right from the get go when the brass was new. Using alot of force on the ram usually gets most to seat.

[JW]

Did the hand held primer solve your problem?
I have noticed that the handheld is a lot easier to prime with that the press

[JohnW]

I agree with 82boy. The last batch of Hornady .223 brass I got. The pocket uniformer tool got stuck in about half the cases. The .223 cases are so small that my hands where cramping up by the time I got done. Also. I use the RCBS hand priming tool. I would never go back to using the press to set primers.
Making sure that primer is seated, is paramount to the reloading process. Duds and hang-fires are dangerous. I've never seen it happen. But lifting the bolt when a hang-fire decides to go off could be catastrophic.

[SHL540KB308]

Have a hard time understanding how you get to a loaded round to begin with. I use a hand primer and if the primer is not seated at least flush I can not remove the shell (first indication something is not right). On brass I did not prime personally I usually catch this problem at the press (shell will not go into shell holder or very tight) because the primer is not flush. Maybe looking for shell holders with less tolerance (tighter fit) might help. Everything else was covered by Pat.

Later, Brad

[Shooter2112]

If they are over .001 to .002 above the base I would punch them out, throw out the punched primers and start over with your cases pocket uniformed - as 82boy said.
If you can feel the cup above the base with your fingernail, it's too high - not a scientific QA method, just a rule of thumb. If the primers are flush - I would shoot away.
Many of the reloading manuals I have - Lee included - recommend .001 below the base.
Invest in a universal decapping die instead of running your cases back through a sizing die (no lube or cleanup required).
I know you said you are shooting a bolt gun, but if you have a gas gun and you are having the same problem with those reloads absolutely DO NOT shoot that ammo - you definitely will be tempting the fate of a slam-fire or open bolt detonation - both catastrophic and potentially hazardous to your health.
Try Remington primers - they tend to dimension slightly 'shorter' than CCI but they burn cooler too and the cups tend to be a bit softer - you can crush them, so take care.
I shoot allot of Winchester brass for initial load testing and the biggest problem I have had with that brass is that the primer pockets get 'soft' (expanded) after a few close-to-max reloads.
Be safe!
S

[Eric in NC]

"Slightly" above the case head isn't going to result in a slamfire. It takes a lot more than that to get a primer to go off.



It certainly can result in a slamfire in a semiauto with a free floating fireing pin (about the only kind of rifle where you actually get "slamfires").

Not going to be a big problem in a Savage bolt gun, except for bad accuracy. Always check primer seating as you seat them. Are you cleaning the primer pockets and makeing sure no tubling medium (corn cob, walnut whatever) is caked in there?

[beartooth91]

Have a hard time understanding how you get to a loaded round to begin with. I use a hand primer and if the primer is not seated at least flush I can not remove the shell (first indication something is not right). On brass I did not prime personally I usually catch this problem at the press (shell will not go into shell holder or very tight) because the primer is not flush. Maybe looking for shell holders with less tolerance (tighter fit) might help. Everything else was covered by Pat.

Later, Brad

I ordered the Lee hand primer, last night. I imagine I won't see it 'till the end of the week.
Its not a problem getting the primered round in or out of the press' shell holder. I measure every loaded round. Based on the OAL, the primers are high by .007-010". I clean with a one of the steel brush cleaners. And I try to do a thorough job.
I've shot these problem rounds, before. Just wondering how safe or unsafe it is to do so.

[beartooth91]

I pulled four of these apart, this morning. The pockets on the three of the four were very, very well cleaned. The fourth was an unfired case (not sure how that snuck in). No help there as to what's causing my seating problem.