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Kiss tactical
06-15-2012, 07:40 PM
has anyone here bed there stock on a axis yet? just wanting to know how it came out. thanks

sharpshooter
06-16-2012, 03:21 AM
Why bother......they don't suffer from a bedding problem. They suffer from a flimsy stock, and there ain't much to do about it unless you want to get a custom stock.

Kiss tactical
06-16-2012, 05:40 AM
Ok. Any tricks to make the stocks less flimsy?

fgw_in_fla
06-16-2012, 01:05 PM
Epoxy, 3/16 inch steel or aluminum rods (your choice) in the fore end - make sure you drill into the bottom of the recoil block & epoxy the rods in place. Don't be stingy with it. Goop it right in there. Let it cure.

Add a piece of flat stock in the butt end AFTER you remove the recoil / butt pad. Make sure you don't hinder replacing the pad by putting a piece of stock in that's too long. Don't ask me how I know that.

Here's some basic info for you..... Except for the Glock.

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This is an older stock from my .270- Same principal, different stock
Frank in Fla

sharpshooter
06-16-2012, 11:49 PM
The weakest point on an Axis stock is right at the wrist.

fgw_in_fla
06-17-2012, 02:19 AM
I couldn't agree more, Mr. SharpShooter.

A terrible design if ever there was one. That's the only place I couldn't come up with a fix without major surgery...

One can only hope somebody will come out with a nice aftermarket stock. Before we're all too old to enjoy it.

Back to bed.

G'night y'all.

Frank in Fla

Oneprimate
06-25-2012, 04:50 AM
I only use my .308 Edge for target shooting. To control the insaine recoil, I filled the butt stock with #9 shot coated in epoxy. I also packed the fore grip cavities. To take care of the flex at the wrist, I removed the trigger guard, and drilled 2 holes back into the butt. I then formed 2 3/16 steel rods to go into the stock, along the sides of the trigger guard to the mag well. The trigger guard was relieved to acomadat the rods, and epoxied in place. The flex is minimal now, at the wrist. The foregrip is still wobbly.

fgw_in_fla
06-25-2012, 05:39 AM
Drill into the lower part of the plastic recoil block, epoxy the rods into it & all along the bottom sides of the forend. You have to cut the plastic ribs out of the way to get the rods to set in deep. That'll take almost all of the wiggle wobble out of it.

If anyone comes up with an easy way to make the grip bigger in diameter, gimme a call. It's too small for my monster mits.

I may experiment with that. I may be able ti strengthen it & build it up in diameter. Then again, I may not.... Geeez I wish somebody would come out with an aftermarket repalcement.

Frank in FLorida

thomae
06-27-2012, 10:50 PM
Using an extra long drill bit, I drilled two5/16" holes through the forend of the stock, starting at the very tip, continuing through the baffles (wanted to leave as much of the baffle structure in place) under the barrel channel, beside/under the recoil lug and out just forward of the lower forward action screw pillar. Into these holes I epoxied (JB Weld) 5/16" aluminum tubing, and filled the channel up with epoxy as well. I also filled up all the holes on the inside of the stock with epoxy, and then turned the stock over and filled up all the voids under the trigger guard. I also epoxied some 1/4" threaded rod into the wrist. I can rest the rifle on a bipod and the weight of the rifle does not cause the stock to touch the barrel...unless I push on it. ...so, stiffer, yes. Perfect? No. I have not played with pull length (I think it's a bit long) and have not adjusted balance (Need to shoot it first to determine where I want it to balance.) Is all this worth it? Don't know. I like to tinker.