Headspacing question

[handirifle]

In setting up my rifles, I have noticed that there is a slight "range" of headspace you have to work with. For example, I usually place the Go guage in the chamber, and screw the barrel up to it. Next I insert the No Go guage, and adjust so the bolt will not close on it. Here's the "range" I mentioned. Do you make it so the bolt will barel start down from full open, or so it just will barely NOT close?

The reason I ask, is it seems sometimes the rifles are not as accurate as they were before. Even with the same load. Repeatability would be much nicer.

[tammons]

I just barely snug the barrel down on the go gage, tighten the nut, and the no-go always hits the same.

If you want your barrel to go on and off the same everytime, you could try a witness mark, or I think some people pin or lock the nut to the barrel. I have never tried either.

[handirifle]

Yea, not a big fan of dinging my receivers or pinning the barrel, will have to go with the "feel" I guess.

[Nor Cal Mikie]

After about 10 barrel swaps: I'll snug the barrel against the gauges. Open and close the bolt and adjust till I get a "slight" resistance. Try both Go and No Go gauges, then I take a full length sized piece of brass and adjust the headspace to that. I never plan on shooting "factory ammo" so that means that the headspace is set tight. By bumping the shoulder about .001 to .002 on the case, I can get "at least" 10 to 15 firings on my brass without any problems. Might need to run them in a body after 5 or so firings but that's it. No loose primer pockets of any other problems. Very long brass life.
If you roll your own, set the headspace tight. If you shoot factory loaded ammo you'll need to see if it will chamber and if not, loosen the headspace up a bit.