Manual questions and a few others

[Hersh5317]

I picked up my first manual today - Nosler 6th Edition (2007). I am thinking about getting atleast 2 more. At this point I plan on reloading for 7mm-08, .223, and future planned calibers of .243, .357, or whatever I may find an interesting niche for in my battery. I want one that has .357 rifle loads. What are your favorite manuals? Everything is going to be used for varmints so a recent Hornady may be useful (I really like the V-Max), but I am open to experienced suggestions.

I am also in need of a case tumbler. I will be loading in batches not exceeding 40-50 for the immediate future. Which one is the best budget minded investment? Inexpensive media options also welcome.

I plan on going with a balance scale for now so that will be simple for me to work out.

Beside a primer pocket brush, is there anything else for that end of the case that is a must have for a beginner trying to get factory ammo performance? Would pipe cleaners be adequate to clean the flash hole (i.e. is the lack of a uniformer going to severely handicap me)?

I am trying to get started on a tight budget. Trimmer and deburring tools will be purchased. I already have a good caliper, single stage C press, shell holder #3 (for 7-08 & 243), 7-08 dies, and some brass, and will make custom cartridge trays. I've read the stickies and browsed various forums.

[Blue Avenger]

dental pick, paper clip can also knock cleaning media out of flash holes.

Not a lot of change between bullets of the same weight. A newer book to reflect the powder formula changes could be good.

Never had a problem with the cheap vibrator case cleaners and corn cob media for economy.

You will probably never notice the changes a uniformer will give you for varmint loads.

[barrel-nut]

Hornady and Sierra both produce good manuals. Lots of good information in each of them. Read several of these before you start if you don't have an experienced mentor to teach you. Each of the manuals will offer some amount of unique information; each has something to offer. Also a good idea to have several manuals because they don't always agree as far as powder charges for a given load. Sometimes one will be significantly different from the rest; in these cases I go with the consensus, not the outlier. In all cases, start low and work up. Learn to recognize pressure signs, and heed them. The various manuals do a pretty good job of explaining and illustrating these.

[justin1098]

the frankford arsenal tumbler is way cheaper than anything else and you can get it from amazon with free shipping. you dont need the medial seperator if you have a cheap wlmart fish net or something. walnut lizard bedding is cheap it doesn't polish as good as corn cob but it you aren't in a hurry or you put some nu-finish car polish or some other amonia free polish, your cases will come out shiny in a few hours.

primer pocket/flash hole tools will do nothing for you unless you are a champion benchrest shooter, but some of those guys don't bother.

[thomae]

Harbor Freight makes a "clone" of the Frankford Arsenal tumbler (http://www.harborfreight.com/5-lb-metal-vibrator-tumbler-67617.html). I bought one on sale a few years ago. Since then, I have had to do some work on it (tighten up some fasteners, add some non skid pads to keep the bowl from turning) but now it works fine. Except for shipping cost, MidwayUSA's Frankford Arsenal tumbler (http://www.harborfreight.com/5-lb-metal-vibrator-tumbler-67617.html) is about the same price. I also own the Midway, but the older style with the rounded bowls like the one from Harbor Freight. Given a choice, for the same price, I'd go with the Midway tumbler

Strainer/separator: My first one (still have it and use it) was (and still is I suppose) a 5 gallon plastic bucket. I cut out the bottom, leaving about an inch around the edge, and replaced it with some wire mesh with approximately 1/4" mesh. I put it in another 5 gallon bucket, pour the media and brass into it when I am done tumbling. Than I can simply lift up the bucket and spin it back and forth and the media all falls through the mesh. Loud, but effective.

Media: if your media has small enough grains, it does not stick in the flash holes. When you tumble, throw in a drier sheet to help catch some of the dust. Walnut, especially gets dusty as the media slowly breaks down. If you have anyone with a walnut allergy in your house, you might want to consider doing your tumbling/polishing outside on a porch or in your garage, especially when you are pouring out the tumbled brass and media.

I bought 40 pounds of corncob from Drillspot for cheap a while ago. Here's the link to the drillspot media: current price including fast shipping is 32.90. (http://www.drillspot.com/products/521055/econoline_526040g-40_40_lbs_blast_media) That gets you enough to fill two 5 gallon buckets,

Another good deal I read about is this walnut media from Zilla (http://www.amazon.com/Zilla-English-Walnut-Shell-Litter/dp/B000OQLU68/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1307957083&sr=8-1)through Amazon.com. I have not used this myself, but I read all about it HERE. (http://www.thehighroad.org/archive/index.php/t-597737.html)

Remember, there is no need to polish your brass. Shiny brass shoots just as poorly as dull brass.
Although shooters generally do like our brass nice and shiny! The purpose of tumbling is to get the brass clean.

Instead of a primer pocket brush, I would get the Lee primer pocket cleaning tool (http://www.midwayusa.com/product/467111/lee-primer-pocket-cleaner). It will scrape the dirt and crud out of your primer pockets better quite nicely. You can chuck it in a drill or lathe do lots of brass reasonably quickly.

I don't use cartridge trays. I use plastic ammo boxes to hold the ammo I am loading.

If you are ever coming over 7 mountains to my neck of the woods, let me know. I have "stuff" I have collected over the years. I will be happy to simply give you some media and an extra media separator like this one (http://www.midwayusa.com/product/731116/frankford-arsenal-standard-media-separator)I have lying around.

[Hersh5317]

Thanks for the information. I'll keep my eyes open for deals. Anybody use the information in those cartridge specific books? How about digital media manuals (online or CD based)?

Scott, thanks again. If I need some help I'll be in contact.

[Blue Avenger]

I use them all. Pick a powder and bullet. Take notes from as many sources as you can and find the average. Then you know your in safe territory.

[darkker]

I bought the Snosler book as well, VERY unimpressed... pg.155 W760&H414. Either that is not current info, or there is ONE HELL of a lot variation that I've never seen in 10 years with that powder....

For folks that I believe ACTUALLY do pressure testing with current lots, Sierra & Lyman!!
Speer's books are also fairly close to reality, and they do final velocities in REAL guns, NOT pressure barrels.

Pick what makes you happy, and enjoy

[Blue Avenger]

I bought the Snosler book as well, VERY unimpressed... pg.155 W760&H414. Either that is not current info, or there is ONE **** of a lot variation that I've never seen in 10 years with that powder....

Why most of us read multiple sources! :)

[cgeorgemo]

The Lee reloading book has compiled data from a number of sources into one book if you get a chance to grab one of them.

[darkker]

I bought the Snosler book as well, VERY unimpressed... pg.155 W760&H414. Either that is not current info, or there is ONE **** of a lot variation that I've never seen in 10 years with that powder....

Why most of us read multiple sources! :)

Agreed, I have 6 different manuals ;D
The OP was talking about his first. Most books are close to one another. The book he listed, I personally take exception with.

[Grit #1]

Can't beat the Lyman manual. Has all the cast bullet info also, rifle and pistol.
Best regards,
Grit