Barrel question

[nuclabuyer]

I have a 22-243 built on a Savage 110, it has a Mcmillan A-5 stock and a Shilen barrel, sharp shooter trigger about everything I can put on it. This barrel shoots terrible until it is smokin hot. I couldnt find anything that would shoot so I said what the hell I will get rid of all the ammo. So as I shot the last 20 bullets with out stop the group shrank down to 2 group I can cover with a dime all the way from a cold barrel group of about 1 1/2. Anybody have any good Idea about why this would happen. The stock I bought as a uninletted stock and sharp shooter supply did the inlet. I am at a loss, I dont know what I should be looking at.

[DarnYankee]

What ammo were you shooting? Hand loads? By who?

[nuclabuyer]

I do the reloading. They are 42.0 gr of 4831, br2 primer, Nosler brass, 80gr vmax bullets. Necks turned to .249

[goosebrown]

I have a R700 in 204 that does the same thing. Cold groups are all over, hot groups are under a dime consistently. Annoying as heck.

[thomae]

You need to design, build and market a barrel pre-heater! Get rich quick!

Ok, have you given thought to what might be changing as the metal heats and expands? (The harmonics of the barrel, obviously, but perhaps some contact areas may be shifting or changing.) Is the barrel still free floating when it is hot? Maybe experimenting with a pressure pad somewhere along the barrel to change your harmonics?

I don't have an answer, but those are my thoughts about your situation.

[nuclabuyer]

I took the rifle apart last night and cleaned the bedding surface and removed some material from the tang area, I doubt that has anything to do with it, at least I dont see how it could. The tang area dosent change temp when shooting long strings. I am going to look at the recoil lug and the barrel free float situation a little more tonight. Thanks for the help.

[cgeorgemo]

I took the rifle apart last night and cleaned the bedding surface and removed some material from the tang area, I doubt that has anything to do with it, at least I dont see how it could. The tang area dosent change temp when shooting long strings. I am going to look at the recoil lug and the barrel free float situation a little more tonight. Thanks for the help.

.
The tang area on Savage 110 based rifles needs to not be bedded. Just the action forward of the rear action screw up to the recoil lug.
Even though it probably won't help the situation it was a good thing to remove that tang bedding material anyway.

[1jonzmith]

.

[/quote].
The tang area on Savage 110 based rifles needs to not be bedded. Just the action forward of the rear action screw up to the recoil lug.
Even though it probably won't help the situation it was a good thing to remove that tang bedding material anyway.
[/quote]

One of the reasons I have read for floating the tang was to prevent the "warmed" barrel from stressing the receiver and causing inaccuracy attributed to "warming". Logically, that would work both ways depending..... But I am only repeating what I heard.


HTH,

John

[cgeorgemo]

The reason I'd read for not bedding the tang was that there isn't a screw attached there so you were just introducing stress where there shouldn't be any by having it touch anything underneath it.

[nuclabuyer]

And that is why I removed a little material. I dont think it was touching but I sanded a little material off just in case. I am going to glass bed it when I get back from TX