questions bedding my medalist/.308

[Toyoda]

First build-model 10 in .308. 30" shillen heavy bull, sss timed/trued, medalist varminter, sss recoil lug.

The barrel wasn't floating, wrapped 3 layers of elec. tape in two spots to center/float it. I have my devcon and searched here and the net about bedding. Definately not hard, but a few questions.
1. how far down do I go on the barrel? 1", 1.5" ??
2. does the recoil lug get bedded on all sides?
3. savages like the tang to float, whats the best way to do it?(layer of tape under?)
4. (maybe a can of worms here)-whats the best way to lock the reciever into the stock? Use the bolts, c clamps, tape, surgical tubing???
How tight does it need to be?

I have another week before my glass gets here, hope to be shooting on Xmas eve.

[pdog06]

1. 0 float the entire barrel

2. the recoil lug only gets bedded on the rear side(action side). put a couple layers of tape on the front &sides of the lug , the whole barrel nut, and 5 or 6 inches up the barrel to protect them against overflow.

3. few layers of tape works fine

4. I install long action screws with the heads cut off into the action and tape them so they fit tight into the pillars. That way no bedding material gets in the pillars. It also helps you line the action up before it sits in the bedding. Then I used tape to hold it in, but surgical tubing works really well too.

Remember to use a release agant on everything you dont want the bedding to adhere too. I even did my stock on the outside. Also remember to fill all the holes and indentations in the action with modeling clay or play-doh.

Have everything ready and do a dry run before you apply the bedding material, just to make sure all avenues are covered.

[Toyoda]

I picked up kiwi shoe polish for the release agent, and lots of modeling clay.

I will put the devcon from the backside of the recoil lug to the rear action bolt.
Why isn't the entire recoil lug bedded in? This would lock it in place and help translate the energy into the stock.?

[pa hog]

It may also make it impossible to get yout action back into the bedding after removing your action from the bedding. ::)
That would be my guess...

[pdog06]

I picked up kiwi shoe polish for the release agent, and lots of modeling clay.

I will put the devcon from the backside of the recoil lug to the rear action bolt.
Why isn't the entire recoil lug bedded in? This would lock it in place and help translate the energy into the stock.?


It is only gonna recoil one way, and that is the side that is bedded so you're good. Like pahog said, the other three sides gives it a little breathing room and doesnt give it a mechanical lock.

[Toyoda]

points taken. ;D

[Harriershot]

I have bedded three Savages and about five Rem 700's. It is my opinion that it is best to completely lock the action to the stock.
I only tape the bottom of the lug, three layers, I don't want the torque caused by the bullet going down the rifling to twist the gun in the stock. After I remove the action after the devcon has dried for 24 hours it releases just fine with the Kiwi's shoe ploish. I use a dremel to sand little radiused edges on the top of the slot in the Devcon where the lug slides into. This makes it much easier to get the gun back in the bedding. I remove a lot of wood in the action area where I want the Devcon to be, I don't believe in skim coating. I bed to one inch in front of the lug. I remove at least a quarter inch of wood in most places and then drill little 1/8x 1/8 footer holes everywhere for the Devcon to grab into. I also use headless guide bolts to set the action into place, then I use the kiwi coated action bolts tightened to 75% tightness to hold the action to the top of the pillars.
Before all this I sand away plenty of wood away from the tang area and seal with tru-oil, this way it does not stop the action from bedding all the way to the pillars.
I don't claim to be an expert but my model 14 in .243 shoots sub 1/2 moa with factory ammo.

Charlie

[Toyoda]

Got the action bedded, nice and easy process. Devcon is easy to use.

One problem-my barrel isn't floating at the end of the stock. I wrapped elec. tape around the barrel to help center it up and float it. When I put the action in and tighten it down the end isn't floating, but past the first 1" to the barrel nut is golden. Whats the best way to fix this??

[GaCop]

To hog out the barrel channel, I use a drill bit extension and 1" sanding drums for heavy benchrest barrels. For lighter barrels, the 3/4" works great.

[Toyoda]

Will that be ok on a glass stock? B&C medalist.

If so then I will load up the dremmel and go to town.

[GaCop]

You can drum sand wood or glass. I'd use a medium fine grit on the glass channel.

[FLATGUNPHIL]

Hey,
Doesn't the B&C Medalist have an aluminum bedding block? If so, it should take no more than a skim coat... I have a B&C and mine has a bedding block.

Phil

[Toyoda]

It does have the bedding block. I have had some crappy groups, pulled the action to install my new barrel (got the barrel to continue the build). I found that there was only a small section of the bedding block that was touching the action, clear marks where the engagement was. I also couldn't get the barrel to center in the channel, tried relieving the area around the lug.
So I skim bedded, first time I have done this- wanted to make sure I did it right.

It went well, but the fore end isn't floating. The rest of the barrel and the tang is now floating, so I just need to finish the front of the stock. I will post pics when I am done.

[Netz]

I use a deep socket of the appropriate diameter wrapped with sand paper to sand my barrel channel, it's a bit slower, not as aggressive as a power tool, but a bit safer.
Curt

[Toyoda]

thats a really good idea