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irondog54
03-28-2012, 07:30 PM
My sucess with Krylon is based on easy applicatio, good looks and durability. Drying time is fast vs ,say, Rustoleum.

efm77
03-29-2012, 11:06 AM
So they won't resist solvents but it's highly unlikely I'll have solvents running to the bottom of the receiver anyway. Am I right in assuming that the Birchwood Casey True Oil will protect basically the same way that tung oil will? These will keep any gun oil from soaking in, in the event that too much gets on the action? The petroleum based oils are what eventually breaks down the wood and I just want some kind of layer on/in the wood to keep it from getting in there although I do oil sparingly.

Eric in NC
03-29-2012, 11:16 AM
Right - tru-oil is basically boiled linseed oil with drying agents/varnish in it to make it easier to work with. Either Tru-oil, BLO, Tung oil or any other non-dinosaur based oil will protect the wood as long as you don't get sloppy.

Good thing about the "natural" oils is you can reapply easily whenever you need to.

drybean
03-29-2012, 11:23 AM
forgot to add boiled linseed oil would work also,but
slow to dry
drybean

ellobo
03-29-2012, 03:51 PM
[quote=drybean ]
forgot to add boiled linseed oil would work also,but
slow to dry
drybean
Oh yeah, very, very slow to dry. Last resort type stuff. The fact oils soak into the wood to an extent is thier saving grace. And they harden to the depth that they soak in.

El Lobo

efm77
03-29-2012, 04:11 PM
Yeah the Tru-oil says it's fast drying and as far as the re-applying goes I guess that comes in handy if for some reason you would get too much solvent or something like that on there that started messing up the finish. I guess you could just clean the solvent off and re-apply the tru-oil in that spot. Thanks again for all the info.

efm77
12-27-2012, 09:33 PM
Sorry,I know this thread is old but I had another thought today when I took off the butt stock of my Marlin 1895. I have the inletting coated with Tru-oil. When I took off the stock I noticed that I must have missed a little bit of excess CLP the last time I lubed it and it ran down under the hammer and was sitting on the inletting of the wood. Again, I have it coated with Tru-oil so I just wiped it off with some alcohol and dried it. The finish appears to be ok as far as I can tell. So, can the gun oil (CLP) eventually break down the tru-oil if left on long enough or does the time frame matter? I know you guys said that the tru-oil sealed it and kept the gun oil from soaking in, I just wondered if there was a time frame to that or not.

kelbro
12-28-2012, 03:28 PM
Man, I hope that this doesn't sound rude but you really should go back and re-read post #2. You are worrying about this way too much.

efm77
12-28-2012, 04:52 PM
No offense taken. I'm sure I'm worrying too much, I just don't want to get my stock stained. I don't over lube my actions but I probably put a little more on them than some people just because I don't believe in leaving them totally dry. However, they're not sloppy either. But occasionally a little excess gets missed and apparently this is what I found yesterday under the tang of my 1895. I've got it coated with Tru-Oil so it should be fine. I just wondered if the oil stayed on the tru-oil if it would eventually break it down and get through it. My guess is that a solvent would but oil or clp probably not. Anyway, thanks for the response.

BillPa
12-28-2012, 05:45 PM
But occasionally a little excess gets missed and apparently this is what I found yesterday under the tang of my 1895.

Like a lot of other things I do outside of "tradition" all my rifles are stored standing muzzle down or hanging upside down. It may not be the classic way of showing them off, but I want any excess oil to drain away from the stock and action, not into them.

A small example...
http://i45.tinypic.com/nd7ou1.jpg

Over the years I've bedded, re-bedded, repaired or replaced too many oil damaged stocks. Of course I didn't complain to much, the money was good!

Bill

ellobo
12-28-2012, 06:05 PM
Ah, BillPa, a good old American capitalist. My kinda guy. Bill I am glad you mentioned the muzzle down scenario. Not many today know that little trick. Even guns I have on a rack on the wall are slanted down at the muzzle to keep oil out of the stocks. Thanks, we old timers have got to keep these young whippersnapers in line and educated.

El Lobo

efm77
12-29-2012, 06:06 PM
I knew that little trick already. Problem is the way the racks are set up in my safe it is impossible to put them in there muzzle down.

efm77
12-29-2012, 06:08 PM
Still no one has answered though whether or not it will soak through a tru-oil finish or not. I've always been told it would keep the oil out of the stock.

efm77
12-29-2012, 06:16 PM
Also with them muzzle down what's to keep it from migrating through the mag box or some other way out of the receiver and into the wood under the receiver or in the forearm? Probably unlikely, but could happen, it could miss the bore of the barrel and get through the action somewhere else. Not trying to be a smart ... just sayin'.

acemisser
12-29-2012, 09:35 PM
If you have so much oil on them that you worry about it dripping all over than Thats your own fault for using so much oil..All it takes is a very thin film to protect them..They do make what is called a sanding sealer from your hardware that is wonderful stuff..One should use a few coats of it though..I use it when doing cabinet work and it is great stuff...Look for it and try it.I know you will be very happy with the results..A lot of the so called oils for wood are junk...Tongue oil is the worst stuff anyone can use on wood..There should be a law to prevent all that crap oil on the market..Never oil a gun with wd-40 it is nothing put cheap fish oil and will cause it to gum up if too much is applied...Good luck with whatever you decide to do or use..

efm77
12-29-2012, 11:00 PM
If you'll notice in my previous posts I said that I don't over oil them. Sometimes though a little excess might get missed. This is what I found under the tang of my 1895. I use a needle oiler to get a couple drops into pivot points like the hammer and carrier hinges in my lever action, then wipe off all the excess I can see. Apparently a little still ran down under the tang though that I must have missed. We're not talking about a lot here but it was noticeable. No offense but you guys are just going back to the same old thing about not over oiling it which I know I am not. But you can't just simply wipe it down with a cloth and leave a thin film and expect that to actually get into a hinge or pin and lubricate it. A thin coat will protect the metal yes but you need to get some sort of drop into a pivot point. That's all I'm doing with mine. Anyway, thanks for the feedback.

kelbro
12-29-2012, 11:31 PM
TruOil is a good sealer and it should at least mitigate some oil absorption if not completely eliminate it.

efm77
12-30-2012, 09:04 AM
Thank you. That's what I was hoping, just wanted to hear of someone else's experience.

Blue Avenger
12-30-2012, 01:11 PM
Know a few guys that stand there guns on the muzzle to make any oil flow away from the stock.

efm77
12-30-2012, 05:06 PM
Thanks but we already touched on that.