Factory Barrel Nut Removal

[mugsie]

I have built several rifles now on savage actions. All the barrel nuts came off relatively easily. Today I removed the barrel on my 10FP, which I had bought new a number of years ago. I have never seen anything like it! I literally beat the snot out of the barrel nut wrench, and bent the screw in the action wrench which goes thru the wrench into the action. I have never seen anything like it - I literally forged flats on the nut wrench I was hitting it so hard! It finally came loose and I was able to rebarrel. Why does the factory snug them up so tight? Damn.....

[ellobo]

I have read where some residue from the blueing process gets in the threads and glues them on. I ran into your problem one time and just took a dremmel with a thin abrasive cutting wheel on it and cut the darn nut off. I was rapidly ruining a good nut wrench.

El Lobo

[Ray Gunter]

I had a real tight one that came off the action without allot of fuss but would not let go of the barrel.

I applied some Kroil and let it set for 4 days while I was out of town. When I came back its screwed off with hand pressure. Whatever they're using Kroil seems to dissolve it.

[thomae]

Just a thought.
Perhaps an electric heat gun, or even a propane torch, judiciously and carefully applied to the barrel nut, especially in addition to the Kroil, might help as well?

[mscott71]

I've had a couple where the junk factory recoil lug had bent under recoil and put the nut in a bind on the barrel. I pounded one straight and I elected to cut the nut from one of them before damaging something I didn't want to.

[mugsie]

Well, I didn't want to cut the nut off as I didn't have a spare and wanted to shoot in the morning, so I just pounded the snot out of the wrench! It finally came off and all is good, but I certainly don't want to do that again!

I picked up a new Shilen 308 SM barrel from Jim at Northland and can't wait to try it in the am. The previous factory barrel was under 1 moa, but I just was not comfortable with the grouping. All shots should have been touching and they were not. Now there's no excuse except me!

[mugsie]

Just wanted to post an update to this thread. I took the Shilen barrel out to the range today. Using ammunition which was tuned for the factory barrel, I was shooting 155g Vmax bullets, and the groupings were coverable by a nickle! My factory barrel never came close to this (and it's the second factory barrel on this rifle - the first was replaced by Savage when it shot like a shotgun rather than a rifle). The other strange thing I noticed, and I have no explanation because it doesn't make sense, but this barrel recoils straight back whereas the factory barrel always hopped sideways. I was always frustrated shooting it because I could never get it to stay on target. With the Shilen it's directly back and no hop to either side. I have no idea why this is but I'm experiencing it.

The replacement barrel (purchased it from Jim at NSS) has made my 308 my favorite rifle to shoot again.

[Aircraftmech76]

I just removed the SS 308 barrel from my 12FVSS. I had a hell of a time getting my nut off too...(ok, let's keep it clean fellas ;D). I noticed that there were what could be described as chips breaking as I was removing the nut from the barrel. I think Savage may be using some thread locker on their barrels. I cleaned up all the thread as best I could, and applied a little Moly grease to the threads of my CBI 6.5x47 Lapua barrel before I put it in the action for a dry fit. Makes a world of difference. I also install my barrel nuts with just a light rap of the deadblow hammer on my nut wrench. Nothing more is needed, especially when you grease the threads.

Kevin