Started my homemade woodstock. (Pic Heavy)

[Got Diesel]

A little background… Last year I decided to tackle modifying the factory tupperware stocks on my three savages. I did this with the use of bondo and it worked pretty well. They were much more comfortable to shoot and have held up really well. Here is the one that I am replacing with the new stock.
http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy189/GotDiesel/IMG_0531.jpg
Well about two weeks ago I decided I would try my hand at making a stock exactly how I wanted it. I would do this out of cabinet grade birch plywood.

The first thing I did was draw out the template of how I wanted the stock to look. I drew this on three 8 1/2"X11" sheets of card stock taped together.
http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy189/GotDiesel/photo6.jpg
Next, cut that template out. This is what I traced onto my stock blank.
http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy189/GotDiesel/photo8.jpg
I had bought a 2'X4'X1/2" sheet of cabinet grade birch plywood. I new that I was going to need my blank to be 5" tall so I set the fence on the table saw and ripped that down. After that I applied Tightbond III to the four pieces of plywood and clamped them together. This made up my stock blank. I then traced my template onto it.
http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy189/GotDiesel/photo9.jpg
http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy189/GotDiesel/photo7.jpg
After that I cut a portion of the blank off to match the end of the buttstock. This just make the piece easier to work with. After that I used a jigsaw and cut out the thumb rest and hook on the butt stock.
http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy189/GotDiesel/photo10.jpg
I then used the drill press to drill the action bolts. I used these locations and a forstner bit and chisel to inlet the magazine box.
http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy189/GotDiesel/photo11.jpg
http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy189/GotDiesel/photo13.jpg
After that I did the same thing to inlet the recoil lug.
http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy189/GotDiesel/photo14.jpg
Once all that was done I used the table saw again to shape the buttstock.
http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy189/GotDiesel/photo1.jpg
http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy189/GotDiesel/photo2.jpg
Next I used a 4 ½” grinder to start shaping the grip area, adding in the palm swell. I used a sanding disk for this. You need to be careful here cause it will remove a lot of material in a hurry. It is not final sanded and shaped yet. Just roughed in .
http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy189/GotDiesel/photo3.jpg
http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy189/GotDiesel/photo4.jpg
I then used a forstner bit and drill press again to inlet the trigger guard.
http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy189/GotDiesel/photo5.jpg
That is as far as I have gotten with the project so far. Router bit for inletting the barrel channel and action should be here today. I will post more pics when I get done with more major steps.

[calib]

looking good so far. i am interested to see how this stock turns out in the end.

[deerhunter85]

Looks great keep us up dated

[GaCop]

Looks great keep us up dated


+1! Beautiful work!

[Got Diesel]

Thanks fellas. I will be giving updates as I finish the project.

Router bit will be here tomorrow. Hoping to get all the inletting done tomorrow.

[calib]

be interesting to see the end product and how it works out for you. you gonna start making these for sale some time in the future?

[Got Diesel]

I'm pretty curious to see how the finished product will end up too. I plan on installing pillars as well as the typical bedding of the action. Router bit did not show up yesterday, hoping that it comes today. Once I get that I can finish the final shaping of the stock. The foreend will get another 1/2 added to it total.

I would have to see how this one holds up before I made them to sell. I have three more to do for myself.

[sparky123321]

Looking good. I did a similar project a couple months ago and I'm currently working on a new batch of stocks. I'm not sure if my experiences would be helpful to you or not, but here are the links. I haven't had a chance to do much on the new batch lately, but I hope to have some time to work on them this week and next. Keep up the good work.

http://savageshooters.com/SavageForum/index.php/topic,47249.0.html

http://savageshooters.com/SavageForum/index.php/topic,48854.0.html

[Got Diesel]

The router bit finally showed up so I was able to get some more accomplished on it last night.
Cutting the barrel channel and action inlet was easy. I used my router table and fence in order to accomplish this.
http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy189/GotDiesel/photo17.jpg
http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy189/GotDiesel/photo18.jpg
http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy189/GotDiesel/photo21.jpg
Next was inletting for the trigger. This for me with the way I did it was the worst part of the whole project thus far. This is because it’s not square. Using some forstner bits, dremel with sanding drum, and chisels I got it accomplished. Now that I have this one done I have figured out a better way to do it I believe. We will see with the next one.
http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy189/GotDiesel/photo20.jpg
http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy189/GotDiesel/photo19.jpg
I was able to close the bolt enough to ensure that the trigger moves as it’s supposed too and does not hang up.
In case anyone is wondering I left the hunk of wood on the in front of the trigger on so I would have a more stable work piece. It should be cut off tonight.

[Got Diesel]

Looking good. I did a similar project a couple months ago and I'm currently working on a new batch of stocks. I'm not sure if my experiences would be helpful to you or not, but here are the links. I haven't had a chance to do much on the new batch lately, but I hope to have some time to work on them this week and next. Keep up the good work.

http://savageshooters.com/SavageForum/index.php/topic,47249.0.html

http://savageshooters.com/SavageForum/index.php/topic,48854.0.html


I have looked through both of your threads, very nice work. What you did there and what Bob Fortier did on his in the "Axis Edge forum was some of the inspiration needed to go ahead and start this project.

I do have one question for you though. How did you inlet for the trigger? Thanks..

[sparky123321]

Yeah, that wasn't my favorite part either. I based all my measurements and the location of the rear action screw off of the trigger guard location. I went by feel, and a few measurements off of factory stocks, to come up with the most comfortable distance from the grip to the trigger guard. I then traced the outline and screw hole locations of the trigger guard onto the stock and drilled through the front trigger guard/rear action screw hole. After that, like you, I used forstner bits and a very sharp wood chisel. I clamped the stock onto the drill press and drilled the end holes "slightly" oversized with the stop was set to the proper depth. I then drilled several “slightly” undersized holes along the center line of the trigger guard with the stop set to the same depth. That left me with just a very small amount of wood that needed to be removed to clean up the straight sides of the trigger guard inlet.

Honestly, I found inletting the trigger area to be the most challenging. I used the same tools, but it was very time consuming and not an exact science. This time around I plan to purchase a 2 axis drill press vise and make some type of metal jig that will index off the action screw holes before I attempt to do the trigger guard or trigger area inlet. I plan to clamp a factory stock into the jig to properly setup the location, diameter and depth of each hole before placing the blank into the jig and drilling the hole. I know it's going to take a lot of time to do it this way, but I really want achieve a more professional looking and repeatable process this time around. I know none of it is really visible when the action is in place, but that's the curse of being OCD.

I think it's great that those of us with pretty basic wood working skills can do what we're doing. I've paid sooooo much and waited sooooo long for stocks over the years and I never plan to deal with that hassle again. It's nice that we can customize them to exactly what we want as well. I can't wait to get moving on my stocks again. I'm dying to see the zebra wood stocks with a finish on them.

I appreciate you sharing your project and I’m hoping to pickup a few more best practices and ideas while reading through your posts.

I was thinking about putting some barrel vent holes along the bottom of my forearms this time around. I shoot very heavy barrels and when they heat up they take forever to cool down. I could use a router, but I was thinking of forstner bits again. Any thoughts or suggestions on that?

Have you though about using steel epoxy for your pillars and bedding area instead of using aluminum pillars. It’s a lot cheaper, easier and produces a tight as a drum fit in my opinion. I can guide you through that process if you’re interested. I also found it easier to have the pillars and bedding done before opening up the trigger area.

Once again, keep up the great work and keep us posted.

[Got Diesel]

Yeah the trigger inlet was definitely the worse part thus far. I had already inletted the trigger guard using forstner bits and a chisel. I then marked off the portion that would stay in place and not be cut out. The rest is straight cut through the stock just like on a factory one. I used a forstner bit for that too. After that it was chisel and dremel work until the trigger fit. I had removed the trigger from the action and just kept setting it in place until it dropped in place just like the factory stock.

What I plan on doing with the next one is to drop the action minus the trigger into the stock once it is inletted. I am then going to trace where the rear tang is in the stock. I will then use forstner bits to remove the material inside the trace line. Depth will be measured out before hand also. I think this will work much better with less hassle and less chance of error.

The Zebra wood should look awesome when finished. I had planned and still do plan on painting this first version, this was in-case I made an oops, and I have. Lol.

In order to do the barrel vents I would use a drill press with a 1/4" flat cut mortising router bit. It makes very clean cuts and holes. That is how I did the recoil lug inlet.

I would be very interested in how you did the pillars in yours. I wasn’t planning on using aluminum pillars. I picked up some specialty washers from Lowes. They are 3/8” in diameter with a ¼” hole in the middle. They are 1” in length. I plan on cutting some groves in these just like pillars you would buy would have in them. I was then going to bed everything at one time using those as pillars.

I could see where it would be easier to have the pillars and bedding done before moving onto the trigger area seeing as how the rear pillar has to be cut down in order to get the trigger in place.

If you would please share how you did your pillars. Thanks

[Got Diesel]

Last night I used a jigsaw to cut the rest of the forearm off. My blade was not cutting at a true 90 degrees to the side, so I cut it off my line and used a belt sander to bring it into the cut line.
http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy189/GotDiesel/photo28.jpg
I also made up my pillars for when I go to bed this. I started out with a 1” long 3/8” diameter with a ¼” hole specialty washer from Lowes. I chucked that up into the drill press and then used a grinder to cut in ridges.
http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy189/GotDiesel/photo27.jpg
I found out the night before I was going to have to router in a notch in the cheek piece in order to remove the bolt when the action was in the stock.
http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy189/GotDiesel/photo29.jpg
http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy189/GotDiesel/photo30.jpg
http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy189/GotDiesel/photo23.jpg
After looking at the photos on the computer I need to clean the lens on my phone off. Sorry about the grainy pictures.

I also did a little more shaping on the stock. I didn’t get pictures of that yet sorry. When I was finished working for the night I went ahead and glued the two side pieces to the forearm. I will get pictures on that tonight.

[jrclocks]

Looks great! I've been thinking about doing this myself and had a couple questions about routing the channel.

What size router bit did you use and where did you buy it?

Did you use the same bit for the receiver area and the barrel area?

Thanks,
JR

[Got Diesel]

I used a 1.25" roundnose router bit. It is a Frued 18-130. I ordered it from Amazon.com. Yes I used it for the action and barrel. A couple of slow passes until I got the depth that I needed. I then took a 1.25" wooden dowel rod which can be purchased and any home improvement store, with some 60 grit sand paper wrapped around it to open up the action area to the required 1.35".

[Smokey262]

How are you guys cutting the inlet for the sear?

[Got Diesel]

Last night I was able to shape the forearm a little. I still need to round the bottom a little more but it is getting much closer.
I used the same router bit I cut the inlet for the barrel and action with to shape the side panels on the forearm.
http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy189/GotDiesel/photo36.jpg
I also got some better pictures for you all outside. Let me know what you think.
http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy189/GotDiesel/photo31.jpg
http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy189/GotDiesel/photo32.jpg
http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy189/GotDiesel/photo38.jpg
http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy189/GotDiesel/photo37.jpg
Tonight I am planning on bedding the action.

[Got Diesel]

How are you guys cutting the inlet for the sear?


I used my drill press and a 1/4" flat cut mortising router bit.

[Got Diesel]

Last night the only work that I was able to get done on the stock was the start of the butt pad. I wanted to keep it as cheap as possible. I ended up using a cutting board which was purchased for $2.59 and a pair of black flip flops purchased for $2.50. The cutting board material was just so I had something hard essentially plastic so I could take it on and off if needed. I pretty much have a spacer system anytime I want this way.
For the padding itself I needed something that would hold up and that was soft. No so much for the recoil on this rifle but in the future on heavier recoiling calibers. I figured if a flip flop could hold up to 150-300 lbs walking around on it all summer and hold up it should work just fine.
I used my jig saw to cut both of these out. I stuck it in my vice upside down and essentially used it like a scroll saw.
This still needs some more shaping but it proves the point to myself that it will work. I will eventually epoxy the flip flop piece to the cutting board material and then paint it.
http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy189/GotDiesel/photo.jpg
Today I was able to sneak down stairs and bed the rifle. It’s still curing right now, I will pop it loose in the morning.
http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy189/GotDiesel/photo1-1.jpg
The front action bolt will be pillar bedded as you can see in the above picture. I did not pillar bed the rear in the conventional sense because of how the savage sear and centerfeed magazine system work on that rear action screw. So what I did was oversize the hole in the stock for the rear action screw and used the trigger guard to align everything thing using the bolt you can see. If it works out like I’m planning then the epoxy will flow and make its own pillar in the rear.
http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy189/GotDiesel/photo2-1.jpg
http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy189/GotDiesel/photo3-1.jpg
http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy189/GotDiesel/photo5-1.jpg
Thanks

[Got Diesel]

Well Sunday morning first thing I was able to pop the action out of the stock and do some clean up on the bedding. Take in mind I was using a dremel with sanding drum. You will see a couple of scuffs in the bedding surface that from me getting carried away. It didn’t actually remove any material just scuffed a couple of spots.
Before clean up.
http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy189/GotDiesel/photo39.jpg
After clean up with magazine in the stock. There really is a front pillar in there too. They JB Weld I used to bed this is fluid enough that it just covered up the pillar by maybe .0005”.
http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy189/GotDiesel/photo41.jpg
http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy189/GotDiesel/photo40.jpg
I still have a little more clean up to do on it but not much. I will say the action is tight as a drum in the stock now. Before bedding I could feel the wood crush slightly as I would tighten the action bolts. Now not so much, it is solid in the front and rear both.