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870 ExpressMag
03-07-2012, 10:03 PM
Need help doing a first time job. I am building a 280AI from a stevens 200. I just got the metal parkerized and i have everything to put it together, but i have a boyds stock and it has no pillars. I would like to pillar and glass bed it, but i have never done either before. I am a very quick learner and i have my A&P, but i am more of a visual learner, anyone near southern Michigan willing to give me a hand for the first time?
jjlietzke@yahoo.com

GaCop
03-08-2012, 05:28 AM
I'd love to help you out but I'm all the way down in Georgia.

LabRat2k3
03-08-2012, 05:39 AM
It is a bit nerve racking to do the first one, but if you take your time, and think about the process, it is really not that hard. The hardest part for me was waiting to pull it back apart to see if I had messed up.

jonbearman
03-08-2012, 10:04 AM
I believe there is a tutorial on here to do it as well as you tube. Just keep in mind that the tang behind the trigger is freefloated on the savage's.

xhogboss
03-08-2012, 11:24 AM
Here's a good place to start: http://www.6mmbr.com/pillarbedding.html

A lot of folks swear by DevCon 10110 as a bedding compound. I had trouble locating it locally so I've used PC-7 on the last three jobs with good success.

There's a post somewhere here about using threaded lamp rod for pillar material - should work just fine. The threads would grab the epoxy and they are certainly strong enough to resist compression when you tighten the action screws.

Good luck.

Fred

kelbro
03-08-2012, 11:55 AM
I tried the threaded lamp part. Worked OK but needed an escutcheon. I had great results with the knurled aluminum pre-cut jobs that the guy on e-Bay has been selling for the past few years.

Eric in NC
03-08-2012, 12:33 PM
I had great results with the knurled aluminum pre-cut jobs that the guy on e-Bay has been selling for the past few years.


+1

Stockrex
03-08-2012, 03:59 PM
Link pls for the ebay pillars

Grit #1
03-08-2012, 07:16 PM
Hi Fred, PC7 is great stuff. I used in once to seal an oil galley crack on a Honda 90 motor cycle some 45 years ago. It never leaked!!! I was going to try is for a bedding compound but I think it is to stiff. The Devcon, which is what I use, can be had from MSC Supply. Manhatten Supply Company. About $45.00 for the kit. There is enough to do 4 + bedding jobs depending on how much stock you hog out.
Best regards,
Grit

big honkin jeep
03-08-2012, 09:30 PM
I've used JB weld with good success. It helps to keep it from running if you let it set up just a little before application. It's certainly easy enough to find. That and a little neutral Kiwi shoe polish for release agent and you're good to go.

drybean
03-08-2012, 09:36 PM
+ 1 on the JB weld , just let it set 15 to 20 mins.
before you aply it
drybean

derrelw
03-08-2012, 11:12 PM
+ 1 on the JB weld , just let it set 15 to 20 mins.
before you aply it
drybean


Yup it works like a champ.

Tnslim
03-10-2012, 04:35 AM
I ordered Devcon 10111 from my local Fastenal, got it in a week for $30.00.

870 ExpressMag
03-14-2012, 09:06 PM
ordered the pre-cut pillar kit from the guy on ebay, gonna give that a shot, still not so sure on the bedding

Don - LongRangeSupply
03-15-2012, 07:05 PM
I have used the threaded electric lamp tubing for years and never felt the need for any other parts.

Just drill the hole all the way through using a bit that allows the threaded tube to fit snugly enough so that you can thread it into the hole easily with your fingers with no side to side play.

Use a piece of tubing that is about an inch longer than you need. True up one end with a flat file. Coat the threads with a light skim of epoxy and do the same in the hole, then turn it in from the TOP with the trued up end going in first, until it is perfectly flush on the bottom of inset in the stock up front and flush with the recessed surface at the back. Let it set then cut the piece that is poking out into the action area with a jewelers saw or whatever, then true it up to match the action shape with a dremel.

The front action screw will bottom out on the tubing, no need for an escutcheon or anything like that, just go with the recessed hole for the screw that was there before you added the pillar up front. The rear pillar will be covered by and will make contact with the trigger guard, again, no need for any other parts.