Lubricants....

[1jonzmith]

By the way....all ATF is synthetic and always has been. At least according to the parts house manager I spoke with. Makes great sense as the stuff pours in sub zero and still lubricates at 300 degrees and above. Just like syn. And I proved it merit at cling and rust prevention...at least to me and my friends that watched the experiment.

One exception, crazy though it be, Lucas Synthetic gun oil did no better than syn motor oil and was far inferior to ATF. And Lucas is red and I would think it had ATF in it but if it does it is an inferior ATF.

HTH,


John

[Willoughby]

-quote- By the way....all ATF is synthetic and always has been
not that it matters -but -Ive worked for Gm for over 30 years
& Gm changed over to Dextron 6 in about three years ago
& told us not to mix with old dextron with newer dex 6
-because 6 was fully synthetic & dex3 & older was mineral based -

[Stockrex]

My Chevy duramax has an allision trans, it uses dex 6 or equivalent. But in crunch I can add dex 3,
So my question is why no mix dino with Syn? Will the metallic surface care? Or is it the hoses and gaskets?

[Grit #1]

All ATF is synthetic. Matter of fact ATF is not red at all. It is clear as water. The red die is added so you can tell the difference between power steering fluild and atf along with some other oils. The difference between power streering fluid and atf is the friction modifiers that are added to the atf so the steels and fibres don't burn out (coefficent of grab). Same reason you add friction modifier to locker differentials. There are clutch plates(fibres) and steels just like an automatic transmission. In addition there are other additives for seal protection. Most often the casualty, in an auto trans, is a clutch drum or servo or accumulator seal leakage, bleeding off pressure to the fibres and steels or band (depending on the trans). If the lockup is not tight they slip on each other and burn up. That is the black crap in the pan of most failed transmissions and the cause of that dark red/brown foul smelling atf that you drained off. Off coarse there are other causes of failure; however, seal failure is the most common. Yea I know you didn't need to know all that; I added it for the inquisitive mind. Some of the older fluilds going back to the 60s were different viscosities. I believe today it has been settle on as 20w.
Regards,
Grit

[Dennis]

I spray WD40 on the outside as needed. If I have fired a couple rounds or a match and will not be cleaning for several hours or overnight, I spray WD40 down the tube to hold the barrel till I have the opportunity to clean it

I don't recommend WD40 as it contains "water".

WD40 . . . Water Displacement - formula #40 . . . that's how it got it's name!

Only use a waterless gun lubricant on your guns!

PS: ATF is some of the thinest oil made. You now have 0-20 motor oil which is close to ATF!

[Grit #1]

Been using wd-40 for 45years. It displaces water. I don't think it absorbs water. It would have to be an emulsified product to do that. I can't say for sure that there is no water in it, however I highly doubt it.
Best regards,
Grit

[3whlnut]

[quote=Ray Gunter ]
I'll probably get some flame over this

But just plain ole ATF is awful hard to beat. Use sparingly.
Been using it for over 25 years. Still works.
[/quote
While I havent used it on firearms(I never really thought of it) I always got a ton of s#*t from people for using atf in my 2 stroke bottom ends. I have been building and racing 2 smokes for 15 years every thing from stock atc's to my big bore Quadzilla and everything in between and never had a bottom end let go with the stuff.

[243LPR]

Didn't Rem-Oil have teflon in it? WD-40 is water based and evaporates over time.

[Dennis]

WD-40 is water based and evaporates over time.

WD-40 will actually strip away any existing lubricant and leave your metal dry – metal on metal. Basically, spraying this stuff on your gun is worse than using no lubricant at all!

[fgw_in_fla]

WD-40 is what you're supposed to keep under the kitchen sink for the 'lil woman to use on squeaks & stuff that's hard to move.... like her scissors.

How'd this discussion come so far?...

All I wanted to know was what brand / kind of moly lube are y'all using.

But, as long as we're discussing it, ATF may end up replacing that over priced gun oil I have in my squeeze & squirt applicator. I've read enough info about ATF here to maybe want to try cooking with it :o...

Maybe even salad dressing or hair tonic? ::)

[Grit #1]

Wikipedia
WD-40
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
For the structural motif in molecular biology, see WD40 repeat.
WD-40
Type Public (NASDAQ: WDFC)
Industry lubrication
Genre lubrication
Founded 1953
Headquarters San Diego, California, USA
Products lubrication
Website http://www.wd40.com


WD-40 spray can


WD-40 with Smart Straw


WD-40 spray can from Germany
WD-40 is the trademark name of a United States-made water-displacing spray. It was developed in 1953 by Norm Larsen, founder of the Rocket Chemical Company, San Diego, California. It was originally designed to repel water and prevent corrosion,[1] and later was found to have numerous household uses.
WD-40 stands for "Water Displacement – 40th Attempt". Larsen was attempting to create a formula to prevent corrosion in nuclear missiles, by displacing the standing water that causes it. He claims he arrived at a successful formula on his 40th attempt.[1] WD-40 is primarily composed of various hydrocarbons.
WD-40 was first used by Convair to protect the outer skin of the Atlas missile from rust and corrosion.[1][2] The product first became commercially available on store shelves in San Diego in 1958.[1]
Contents [hide]
1 Function
2 Formulation
3 WD-40 company
4 See also
5 References
6 External links
[edit]Function

The long-term active ingredient is a non-volatile, viscous oil which remains on the surface, providing lubrication and protection from moisture. This is diluted with a volatile hydrocarbon to give a low viscosity fluid which can be sprayed and thus penetrate crevices. The volatile hydrocarbon then evaporates, leaving the oil behind. A propellant (originally a low-molecular weight hydrocarbon, now carbon dioxide) provides gas pressure in the can to force the liquid through the spray nozzle, then itself diffuses away.
These properties make the product useful in both home and commercial fields; lubricating and loosening joints and hinges, removing dirt and residue, and extricating stuck screws and bolts are common usages. The product also may be useful in displacing moisture, as this is its original purpose and design intent.
[edit]Formulation

WD-40's formula is a trade secret. The product is not patented, to avoid completely disclosing its ingredients.[2][3] WD-40's main ingredients, according to U.S. Material Safety Data Sheet information, are:
51% Stoddard solvent (i.e., mineral spirits: primarily hexane, somewhat similar to kerosene)
25% Liquefied petroleum gas (presumably as a propellant; carbon dioxide is now used instead to reduce WD-40's considerable flammability)
15+% Mineral oil (light lubricating oil)
10-% Inert ingredients
The German version of the mandatory EU safety sheet lists the following safety-relevant ingredients:
60–80% Heavy Naphtha (petroleum product), hydrogen treated
1–5% Carbon dioxide
It further lists flammability and effects to the human skin when repeatedly exposed to WD-40 as risks when using WD-40. Nitrile rubber gloves and safety glasses should be used. Water is unsuitable for extinguishing burning WD-40.
There is a popular urban legend that the key ingredient in WD-40 is fish oil.[4] However, the WD-40 web site states that it is a petroleum based product.[5][6]
[edit]WD

Fact man, Facts. Nothing buy the facts.

Well I don,t see water listed here. Do you all???
I have never seen WD evaporate and leave metal on metal. It leaves a film of oil that stays for long periods of time basically until it is wiped off.
Best regards
Grit

[thomae]

I use WD-40 to clean and dry off wet metal things, but then lubricate with a light application of motor oil. 1 bottle of Mobile 1 will last me most of the rest of my life. Is it the best? I don't know, but it works for me.

I use green grease when I need grease. It's a thick waterproof grease that seems to me to cling well.

I also have a lot of dry Moly powder hanging around. A spoonful added to any oil makes it even slipperyer (is that a word?)

If anyone needs Moly powder, let me know. I have a lot.

I think that there are many types of lubricants that work well as long as they are applied periodically and correctly and cleaned off and reapplied when they need to be. I am not as particular as some, and I don't think I am ruining my equipment.

[Dennis]

I have never seen WD evaporate and leave metal on metal.

You have a good point!

WD-40 is thin and evaporates. It's like a magnet for dust and dirt.

I know some of you swear by it, but seriously, to all, don't use it to lube your gun or gun parts. Use gun oil or gun greese. Read the below and see why.

FACTOID: WD-40

Non-hazardous Ingredients < 10%

That would mean up to 9.999 or 9.9999 % is Non-hazardous. The last time I checked H20 (water) was non-hazardous.

To put that in perspective 1 gallon equals 128 ounces, that would mean approximately 12.78 ounces floating around in a gallon of WD-40. That's like a soda can full of some non-hazardous chemical.

I have a friend who worked in the US Navy's Metrology program. (Metrology is the science of measurement). While using WD-40 as a "rust preventative" on some mechanical standards they were still experiencing oxidation, (rust). Since they were procuring WD-40 in 1 gallon cans.They emptied a can into a clear container, and soon after, several off white, clouds settled at the bottom. They had this analyzed in the Chem Lab. It was "H2O" water.

They immediately quit using WD-40! Our military uses their own lubricants for their firearms and it's a closely guarded secret! Comes in green packages-military use only. I have a friend who might be able to analize it. We will see!

Water cause rust! Especially on guns and gun parts!

[hornet13]

IMHO, syn is the way! check out Mil-comm.com IME, ATF is the best "breaker" to remove a savage barrel.

[Stockrex]

I have a few blued long actions with the salts in the threads
Should I put a few drops of Argo in the threads?

[earl39]

Dennis for the record it says "10-% Inert ingredients".

Argon gas is an inert gas but if it is all you breath it will kill you. Water is not inert as it has properties that cause problems depending upon what it contacts which can make it hazardous to such things. If the government got some wd-40 that had water in the gallon containers then it was contaminated somewhere as wd-40 displaces water and is not made with water.

Now after saying that i agree that you should never put it in any of the working parts of a weapon because it does collect dust and dirt and it will turn to a caked on sludge that in my experience can only be removed by soaking it with wd-40 and then after cleaning remove the wd-40 with a good degreaser and lube with a good oil or grease. Use wd-40 on the outside on non-moving parts.

[Grit #1]

Exactly as Earl said. I use it to hold a barrel so it does not rust prior to cleaning and I have a lot of chrome moly barrels that I shoot matches with. I have not lost one yet. I also use it on the outside of blued and stainless guns. Have not had one turn to red iron yet. Like I said I have been using it on firearms for over 45years. I have 150+ in my collection from 1919A-4s to 22 pistols. The new carrier is CO2, under pressure, it is a liquid not a gas. It is also considered an inert gas. The old carrier was propane, we used to use it to start diesel engines in lieu of ether. In the new formula there could very well be 10% CO2 in it's liquid form in the can. The gallon is a different story. I also use WD-40 as a cutting and cooling fluid while machining aluminum. And believe me at my business a lot of aluminum gets machined. I have not found anything better in 30 some+ years. I like kroil a lot to and buy it by the case. I use it inside the barrels after cleaning them, it helps reduce fouling in factory bores. It has many other uses also.
Best regards,
Grit

[Dennis]

If the government got some wd-40 that had water in the gallon containers then it was contaminated somewhere as wd-40 displaces water and is not made with water.

This is possible . . . .

I an not sure where this came from: "10-% Inert ingredients".

Please refer to the following MSDS sheet . . . STATES: NON-Hazardous Ingredients < 10

http://www.wd40.com/files/pdf/msds-wd494716385.pdf

[earl39]

If the government got some wd-40 that had water in the gallon containers then it was contaminated somewhere as wd-40 displaces water and is not made with water.

This is possible . . . .

I an not sure where this came from: "10-% Inert ingredients".

Please refer to the following MSDS sheet . . . STATES: NON-Hazardous Ingredients < 10

http://www.wd40.com/files/pdf/msds-wd494716385.pdf


From the same msds

9 – Physical and Chemical Properties
Boiling Point:
361 - 369F (183 - 187°C)
Specific Gravity:
0.8 – 0.82 @ 60F
Solubility in Water:
Insoluble
pH:
Not Applicable
Vapor Pressure:
95-115 PSI @ 70F
Vapor Density:
Greater than 1
Percent Volatile:
70-75%
VOC:
412 grams/liter (49.5%)
Coefficient of Water/Oil Distribution:
Not Determined
Appearance/Odor
Light amber liquid/mild odor
Flash Point:
122F (49°C) Tag Open Cup (concentrate)
Flammable Limits: (Solvent Portion)
LEL: 0.6% UEL: 8.0%
Pour Point:
-63C (-81.4F ) ASTM D-97
Kinematic Viscosity:
2.79-2.96cSt @ 100F

check both the boiling point and the pour point. water boils at 212 and begins to freeze at 32 degrees Fahrenheit. also states it is Insoluble so you can't have water in it. Just because something says it is non-hazardous does not mean it is water. Oxygen is a hazardous material but without it we die. It all depends on the conditions and what something is used for and what condition it is in. Oxygen in the air is good for us but liquid oxygen gets on you and you are in a world of hurt. I am just using oxygen for an easy example.

I am not trying to get in a p***ing contest or anything just trying to make sure folks don't read this and take it that wd-40 is made out of water and start blaming it for rust and other water related problems. I don't belive it is a great protector but it will help remove water so you can put a really good protector on your metal parts.


Edited to add this.

If you will read the MSDS all the way thru you will find this at the bottom. Notice it says ALL the components.

EPA Toxic Substances Control Act (TSCA) Status: All of the components of this product are listed on the TSCA inventory.

California Safe Drinking Water and Toxic Enforcement Act (Proposition 65): This product does not contain chemicals regulated under California Proposition 65.

[RHM]

I highly recommend reading this article: http://www.grantcunningham.com/lubricants101.html It changed my perspective on what I have used over the past 20+ years.

I bought Lubriplate 105 from Brownell's (http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=6524/Product/LUBRIPLATE). It's not "SFL" NLGI#0, but it is the same brand's NLGI#0 in another line.