Project rebarrel and stock bedding sanity check

[Farhawk]

Hi all,

The Barrel

The barrel vise, barrel wrench, Barrel Lug, and 6.5x55 Criterion Heavy 28" match barrel I ordered from Northlander arrives this afternoon . I already have a Forster Go Gauge. I just finished removing the stock and applying some good penetrating oil to the barrel nut. The plan is to remove and install tomorrow morning. This is my first time.

I have purchased a Forster shoulder bump Neck sizing die and I have some Lapua Brass on the way. I'm thinking this will allow me to keep the Head Space tight.

After removing the barrel I will check the receiver in the area where the barrel lug makes contact and remove any irregularities. Then screw the barrel snug (how snug?) to the head space gauge and torque the Barrel nut to 35 ft lbs. I will use tape on the back of the Go Gauge to check No GO.

Am I on the right track? Any suggestions?

The Stock:

I plan to use the Factory stock until the Prairie Dog/Tactical stock arrives from Stockade. I figure this will give me the opportunity to perform my first pillar bedding job on the factory stock without much worry. (except permanently gluing the action to it) I have read extensively on the bedding process but I'm still nervous about it for some reason.

I have already had one small adventure with the factory stock http://savageshooters.com/SavageForum/index.php/topic,47596.0.html The previous owner had refinished the wood (poorly) There is a small crack on the right side of the back of the receiver contact point. I have removed excess finishing material from the tang area and both receiver contact points. I guess the point in telling you this is that it has been messed with and is in fairly poor condition. It is straight though.

I thought I might start by doing a pillar bed only. Then in a separate operation do the rest of the receiver and recoil lug with the receiver lightly torqued. This may be inefficient but will it cause any quality issues?


Thanks in advance.

[r29l20]

I always do the pillars first. I make sure the action is touching the stock at both pillar area contact points. If it is, I make the pillars to mount flush with the stock.

[Farhawk]

I got the barrel on today. Slight pressure when closing the bolt on the Go Gauge. Added .004 tape to base of gauge and will not come close to closing. Unfired round chambers with slightly more pressure than Go gauge. Feels good to me. Hopefully not too tight.

Has anyone inlet the factory stock for a 1 inch barrel? It is looking like there won't be much wood left.

[jo191145]

Is the small crack you mentioned by the rear pillar? A crack in the wood or finish?

[GaCop]

Is the small crack you mentioned by the rear pillar? A crack in the wood or finish?


If it is cracked, that issue would have to be addressed and repaired before continuing with epoxy bedding.

[jo191145]

Is the small crack you mentioned by the rear pillar? A crack in the wood or finish?


If it is cracked, that issue would have to be addressed and repaired before continuing with epoxy bedding.



Agreed.
I have three factory laminates. All three have those cracks. Two were purchased used and came with the cracks.
My first was a case of overtightening the rear screw. I heard it snap :-[ Might never have noticed that first crack if I had'nt heard it.
That light recoiler 204R I fixed with a scab of furniture grade plywood epoxied to the rear of the mag well and rebedded.
Just gotta make sure theres clearence to the mag. Not proffessional but it worked.
The other 308 based rifle I used a Talley crossbolt and reinstalled the pillar also before rebedding. Both have held up well.
My hunch would be theres quite a few Savages throwing unexplained fliers out there.

[Farhawk]

Guys,
The crack in the stock is in the rear pillar area pretty much in line with the inlet for the trigger guard. It is a hair line but almost a 1/4 inch deep. I was thinking about opening it up with a Dremel so I can get some epoxy in there then using JB weld since I have some. Is this a reasonable approach for the repair?

[jo191145]

I would try popping that rear pillar out. My quess and its only a quess is it should come out fairly easy.
If I remember correctly it seemed to me Savage does'nt glue in the pillars. They're press fit with a shoulder flange on the bottom.
I could be mistaken on that. Maybe someone can verify. memories not what it used to be.
Rebore that pillar hole just a smidge bigger. Smidge = .010" or so.
Then reepoxy that pillar into the hole with JB. Reinsert the action screws so things line up ;) Use release agent and tape around the screw plus release agent.
Be careful to insure that half moon cutout in the pillars is lined up correctly. Once cured that baby ain't coming out ever again.
I don't think removing material is ever the way to go.
Just getting a good liberal coat of epoxy around the pillar and subsequent bedding job would probably be enough to fix the issue.
A wood or even metal scab in the magwell can't hurt and it offers a little more bedding area for the action.
You've found the weak point in the Sav action/stock design and it pays well to beef it up.

After thats set up you should rebed the entire action as normal.
Some folks would do the entire job in one shot but personally I prefer to fix the stock first and bed second.

Another tip. After bedding you'll always find epoxy has seeped into the pillar between the screw.
This must be drilled out. I always use a slightly larger drill than the original hole in the pillar.
I don't ever want the action screw touching the pillar. The lugs job is to handle recoil not the screws.

[ellobo]

Hmmm. I bought a used factory laminate stock for my .35 Whelen and never noticed any crack. Now I think I will remove the action and check. If there is a crack I will follow jo191145's method. I dont think the stock has pillars anyway so this would be a good time to do the job with a partial bedding. So far I havnt noticed any change in accuracy. If I find a crack I will post it back here on this post.


El Lobo (Go Patriots)

[Farhawk]

I mis-spoke when I said the crack was in the pillar bed area. Its actually in the rear receiver contact area. This is one of the brown hardwood stocks with out pillars. I fit it for the 1 inch barrel today. Used a one inch dowel clamped in vise and sandpaper super glued to it. It turned out pretty well and only took about 20 minutes. I then resealed the sanded area with Tru-Oil. Spent the rest of the day installing the pillars.

[jo191145]

Farhawk

FYI its generally accepted the furthest rear receiver contact point on a Savage is the pillar.
Generally the rear tang is to be floated unlike a Remmy.

Thats not to say theres not talented smiths and casual tinkerers that have'nt bedded the rear tang with excellent results.
Just thought you'd like to know.
A small crack under the rear tang should'nt cause any worry. especially if the tang is floated as normal.