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View Full Version : refinishing a 114 American Classic stock?



pdog06
11-24-2011, 11:45 AM
Just got a new 114 SS American Classic. This stock has a matte finish, not the high-gloss finish as seen on the blued A.C. models.

The wood grain on this stock is very nice, with a good but of feathering and such on the buttstock. So i was thinking of making it a high-gloss finish but am unsure of which way to go.

Heres my question:

Can I just add more clear to the existing factory(and if so, what do you recommend), or do I have to sand the original finish off and re-do it completely?

GaCop
11-25-2011, 06:50 AM
You could probably get away with it but I would give the factory finish a light sanding to give the new finish something to bite into. Also, I'd first mask off an area in the barrel channel and do a test spray to be sure the two finishes are compatible.

sharpshooter
11-25-2011, 03:34 PM
I would give it a buff out first, that satin finish may just come up to a nice shine.

Eric in NC
11-25-2011, 05:04 PM
I would give it a buff out first, that satin finish may just come up to a nice shine.


+1 - don't know what finish they use but if it is a "modern" poly finish buffing it will likely get you some good shine. I like 3M finessit (beyond ultra fine compound), but some folks still love rottenstone.

If that doesn't work, areosol tru oil sprayed in very light coats then wiped off with fast food napkins (they aren't very adsorbent) gets a nice shine. Would try that befor I went to sanding and refinishing - VERY hard to remove modern finishes without sanding so much you make the stock too small!

Firefighter
11-25-2011, 05:54 PM
Use 000 steel wool on stock and then have a autobody shop spray one coat of clear for you. They may even prep it for you, they did mine all for $30.00

jpdown
11-26-2011, 02:02 PM
I have refinished several 14/114 classic stocks. The good news is that it appears your stock has an oil based finish. Factory stocks have a undercoat stain so that they all come out of the factory looking the same. Be very careful you don't sand through that undercoat to the bare wood. It will be impossible to get that spot to match the surrounding finish. Trust me, I've already made that mistake. The easiest way to get the finished appearance you are looking for is to use Tru-Oil Gunstock Finish. Use 0000 steel wool to dull the current finish. Clean off dust and steel wool particles with a tack cloth. Tape off the checkering. You don't want to fill the checkering with finish. I apply danish oil to the checkering with a tootbrush as the last step. Apply Tru-Oil to a small piece of cotton cloth. Hand rub an even, thin coat of Tru-Oil in one direction over the entire stock. Rub out any streaks or excess spots. Let dry for 24 hours. Dull the finish again with steel wool. Apply another coat of Tru-Oil and let dry. Repeat the process until you build up the finish to the desired luster. Usually 3 to 5 coats. Hand rubbing on the finish gives you more control over the outcome verses spraying on the finish. I would recommend a Tru-Oil finish over a poly/clear coat finish. If you scratch or nick the Tru-Oil finish with use, it is much easier to repair using the same process outlined above. You will be happy with the results for years to come and won't be afraid to take your Savage Classic out of the gunsafe and use.

You can bring out the true beauty and character of the walnut wood hidden by the factory "cookie cutter" finish by chemically stripping off the finish to bare wood. I've had the best luck with Dad's Easy Spary stripper. It takes repeat applications to lift off the tough factory finish without sanding. Tape the plastic black forend tip, or the stripper will melt the plastic. This is a labor/time consuming process that I would avoid unless you enjoy working with wood and refinishing gunstocks. Below is a picture of a Savage 14 classic stock that I stripped to bare wood, dirty sanded with diluted Tru-Oil to fill the pores and applied multiple coats of Tru-Oil finish using the steps above to get a high luster finish. The checkering is treated with dark walnut danish oil. I replaced the plastic grip cap and forend tip with ebony wood. I used a Kick-Eez recoil pad. The current barrel is a SS 24" CBI light varmint contour in 204 Ruger. As you can see, I was able to bring out the true beauty of the walnut hidden by the factory finish. Best of luck on your project.

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii276/jpdown/PICT0032.jpg

TOO Builder
11-26-2011, 03:15 PM
jpdown, very nice finish on that stock. You must have opened up the barrel channel also??

I have a 114 Classic in 25-06 that has the oiled finish stock. The barrel/action are a dull black cearacoat type factory finish. I had thought of applying some more tung oil but its is such a nice looking piece of wood I don't want to mess it up!

I do finish my other stocks with tung oil or Permalyn (which I'm thinking is just a brand name of tung oil) however you can spray it on also. jpdown gives some good advice on how to do it. I also use red Scotch Brite pads to scuff the finish in-between coats. I'll spray the first couple coats thinned down to soak in good and then spray full strength. If you want to knock the shine when finished I have rubbed in the last coat of tung oil with some well worn very fine steel wool or even just my fingers, and then wipe with a clean rag. I generally just spray it and leave it. Here are a couple with the sprayed on finish. Ditto on scratching the stock. My rifles go to the dog towns and get dirty and a little scratch here and there. With a tung oil finish all you need to do is pull the stock, scuff down well, mask it off and spray a coat on and your good as new. Allot tougher with clear coat.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v318/Toobuilder/IMG_4199_1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v318/Toobuilder/IMG_6741800x600.jpg

pdog06
11-26-2011, 10:26 PM
jpdown,
VERY nice finish on that stock. It looks like its a little darker as well. Thanks for the great info. I do have some tru-oil on hand but was unsure if it could be used over the existing finish. That will probably be the way I go when I decide to mess with it...Guess I should atleast shoot the gun first, huh...LOL

Too builder, Why did you have to post that top pic? I love that stock and have wanted to have one made for my 260 ever since. For the sake of my marriage please dont post a pic of the whole gun...LOL

pdog06
12-04-2011, 09:42 PM
I still have not done anything with this stock yet(or even shoot the gun for that matter...LOL), but I finally took some pics of the gun and thought Id post a few of the stock. The wood on this is far better than any other Savage factory stock I have seen.

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t106/pdog06_photos/DSC02157.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t106/pdog06_photos/DSC02158.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t106/pdog06_photos/DSC02163.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t106/pdog06_photos/DSC02162.jpg

And if my 9yo son only knew what this 30/06 would do to his shoulder...LOL
http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t106/pdog06_photos/DSC02164.jpg

12fv 308
12-04-2011, 10:08 PM
Hi Mike, That 114 looks great as i is. But a high gloss wil me it pop...

jpdown
12-05-2011, 12:07 AM
That is a beautiful walnut stock with the best markings I've ever seen on a factory stock. It definately appears to be an oil based finish. You can't go wrong if you want to leave as is, or build up the finish to get a satin gloss finish.

12fv 308
12-05-2011, 10:54 AM
I Guess you are not looking to trade anymore? I was thinking about buying a 116 and trading with you :'(

pdog06
12-05-2011, 07:33 PM
I Guess you are not looking to trade anymore? I was thinking about buying a 116 and trading with you :'(


LOL.. not for a factory synthetic

hcpyro13
12-05-2011, 07:36 PM
That's a beautiful piece of wood you got.

-Jake

pdog06
02-02-2012, 03:27 PM
Was finally able to get this stock done...

I cleaned and sanded down the stock to give the new finish something to bite to, then applied 5 coats of Tru-Oil. Once dry I steel wooled it lightly then put on a coat of wax. It was nicer than before but I wanted more shine. So....

After I let it sit for a few days I went over the stock the stock like you would do with auto clear. I started with some 3M rubbing compound. this really smoothed out the finish and brought a nice shine to it. Then i followed with 3M Imperial hand glaze, which really gave it a deep shine. Looks almost 3D in person. Finally, I protected it with a coat of Meguires wax.

i think it turned out pretty good. Not 100% by any means, but close enough for me.

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t106/pdog06_photos/105.jpg
http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t106/pdog06_photos/108.jpg
http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t106/pdog06_photos/112.jpg

Blue Avenger
02-02-2012, 09:10 PM
:o shiny ;D

pdog06
02-02-2012, 09:39 PM
Yup...now im afraid to scratch it.....LOL

rjtfroggy
02-03-2012, 07:37 AM
Rehab fits you nicely. Refinish one buy another to work on and sell one to make room.
Getting ready for a sell off at the shoot? ;) : ;D

GaCop
02-03-2012, 07:47 AM
Was finally able to get this stock done...

I cleaned and sanded down the stock to give the new finish something to bite to, then applied 5 coats of Tru-Oil. Once dry I steel wooled it lightly then put on a coat of wax. It was nicer than before but I wanted more shine. So....

After I let it sit for a few days I went over the stock the stock like you would do with auto clear. I started with some 3M rubbing compound. this really smoothed out the finish and brought a nice shine to it. Then i followed with 3M Imperial hand glaze, which really gave it a deep shine. Looks almost 3D in person. Finally, I protected it with a coat of Meguires wax.

i think it turned out pretty good. Not 100% by any means, but close enough for me.

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t106/pdog06_photos/105.jpg
http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t106/pdog06_photos/108.jpg
http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t106/pdog06_photos/112.jpg


Nice work, ya did good.