Drilling and tapping Stevens trigger

[AaronS]

Hi all

Tried to drill a hole in my stevens trigger the other day for some improvement. Was expecting it to be tough but man, it was TOUGH. It just laughed at the dril bit I was using. Can anyone tell me what type of bit I need to get through this stuff? Also, once I have drilled it, will my standard taps work?\\

Thanks
Aaron

[stangfish]

8 or 10% Cobalt or Carbide. But you will break your tap if you plan on threading it. You could buy a spare and anneal the back side where you are trying to drill. Then see what happens. To anneal something is to soften it, whether to relieve stresses or to make the material easier to work with. Ferrous materials, like mild steel or carbon steel are annealed by heating it to a critical temperature and then allowing it to cool as slowly as possible. The slower, the softer. Insulation or controlled heat is sometimes used to really slow down the cooling. I would try it because the factory triggers like the stevens are cheap.

http://www.gunshack.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=51


after several tries, fumble fingers gets his post right....

[Eric in NC]

Much easier to buy an old 3 screw trigger. Think Northlander may have some

[geargrinder]

It is a scintered material that is press formed from powdered metal. It behaves like a case hardening. Very hard on the outside, but soft on the inside.

Like Eric said, find a 3 screw. Or, upgrade the the SSS or Basix Sav-2.

[stangfish]

im glad you pointed that out geargrinder. Heating sintered metal can do undesirable things. I thought it was hydrocut and tempered.

[dcloco]

Might take a look at the Jard triggers as well.

[AaronS]

Thanks for the advice everyone. I like tinkering so might have a go at it with the option of buying a 3-screw or Rifle Basix when I fail. Am in Australia so need an import permit for trigger from US (free but paperwork is a PITA) but if anyone is in Oz on here, and have spares please let me know.

Regards
Aaron

[Eric in NC]

Another option might be to build up a "hump" of weld and file it down - non adjustable but might be easier. People HAVE put a screw in them - seen pictures of it, but the case hardening combined with the powdered metal would make me worry about it crumbling when I tried to tap it.