bedding improvment

[coldmaker]

hi all!
last winter i bedded my savage 16flhss to try and improve accuracy i only glass bedded the action and stopped at the barrel nut. i tought i'd try it like that first and if it didn't work, i'd bed the first 4 " of the barrel just in front of the barrel nut also.
well...i'm there. want to try this. the rifle will often shoot 3-4 shot in 3/4" and the other 1 or 2 are fliers that enlarge the group to1-1/4".some fliers i could call, but most of the timei could feel the shot was good and still get a flier, since it has a sporter barrel i've read that i'd be better serve with the first few inches bedded or even with a pressure point.
now after trying my remington free floated without success i re-did a pressure point and it's awesome. but this one has a solid laminated stock.with the flex in the savage stock, i'm afraid the POI might shift depending on how different pressure is put on the forearm (using bi-pod or off- hand shooting for example) i think bedding the first 4" of the barrel will make it less sensitive to that ( what do you think)

so now, how do i do it?
do i put devcon in the barrel channel and tape the stock to the action like i did when bedding the action?
or do i screw the stock to the action, like i would when normally putting the rifle together, so that i'm sure the action is acually thight in is bedded place?
do i put a little weight to the front swivel stud, like when building a pressure point?

your 2 cents is welcome!
Thank's
CM

[jinx-)]

I think your rifle comes with accustock, you only need to bed 1 - 2 inches after the barrel nut. Devcon is nice, I found Kevlar works great!

here's link to the stuff I used
http://www.doitbest.com/Epoxies+and+glues-Power+Poxy-model-387088-doitbest-sku-387088.dib?utm_source=shoppingfeeds&utm_medium=googlebase&utm_campaign=BROI

[coldmaker]

Thank's jinx!
I forgot to specify but mine doesn't have the accustock.
I guess the same rule apply?

[GaCop]

Shooting five shot groups with a sporter barrel, how long are you waiting between shots? Sporter barrels heat up quick and that may be why your groups are opening up. For a sporter rifle, three shot groups are the norm.

[coldmaker]

i wait for as long as is needed for the chamber section to cool down ( the muzzle section cool down faster) so it depends on the outside temperature.
when it cool outside it may take only 2-3 min. but i wait up to 7-8 min in summer heat.

[jinx-)]

I have 111 with sporter barrel and non-accustock which I bedded, you only need to bed 1" - 2", 1.5" would be fine. Things you might consider: don't try to bed whole thing at once, first make physical locks in your stock, by drilling half way portion of the stock you planning to bed, also make scrapes and deep cuts so epoxy can get better grip, at first apply thin layer of epoxy so it will cover and fill all the locks you created, when epoxy cures, use rough grit sandpaper, then you can complete bedding it. During that process use thick paper to support barrel, I used cardboard from cereal box, this actually has to be done when you were bedding action.
Yeah the sporter barrel only good for 3 shot groups, don't push it pass that, by the way I replaced my sporter barrel with SS CBI varmint barrel, had to open up channel and redo bedding since I change its recoil lug.

[coldmaker]

i generally have the same result with 3 shot groups... 2 shot touching and another one (not necessarily the 3 rd) is 1" beside the other 2.
the action is already bedded, so i only need to bed the first 2" of the barrel under the chamber. do i still need to support the barrel?
do i tape the action to the stock or bolt it back on?

thank's for your time :)

[davemuzz]

I'm not a fan at all of bedding any part of the barrel nut or the barrel. Here's a pic of my 6.5 Swede group at 100 yards shooting a 129 Hornady SST.

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a212/davemuzz/784679235_photobucket_44905_.jpg

Now, the first three shots were in the 1" dot, and the next 2 were outside. The barrel is a sporter and I did not wait at all. These 5 shots were fired in under 5 minutes.

I did a "skim coat" of Davcon for the bedding and when I did around the recoil lug, I taped the lug twice on the outside and twice in the front. However, right after the bedding, and when I cleaned up the rough stuff, the groups got worse. So, I sanded the Davcon off the sides of the inside of the stock, and did a very thorough job of cleaning up any "gak" that was left. The groups got better....but still not to my liking.

So, I looked long and hard at the recoil lug. I measured with the "tail" of my dial caliper, the depth of the lug opening and compared that to the lug on the barrel. The free space seemed much to close.....and I mean less than paper thin close. So, I took out my small set of sharp wood chisel's and carved away the Davcon that was at the bottom where the recoil lug would or might touch, and the sides as well.

When I finished I blew out all the chips with an air compressor. I then re-assembled the action to the stock...and with the gun pointed straight up in the air, and the action screws just barely in the snug position, I gave a gentle "bang" of the butt stock on my bench a few times to make sure the recoil lug was firm against the stock's recoil lug resting "place."

I then tightened the front screw FIRST, then the rear screw SECOND.....and both to 45 in\lbs.

Then I went out and shot these 5 rounds.....then I went out and whacked two groundhogs!!! ;D ;D ;D

I hope this helps.

Dave

[bluealtered]

I have to agree with dave on the recoil lug, i never have bedded any of mine but have bought two savages that had the lug bedded. Both of those rifles had fliers when i shot them and after removing the bedding they both settled down and made good groups. blue

[coldmaker]

Thank's Dave and Blue you might have a point there. If i remuer well when i did the bedding of the action
I put 2 layers of green painters tape to the sides and Front of the recoil lug and only one on the bottom
I fought it had to be has tight as possible.
I'll try this first and let you know.