Tupperware stock and Bondo

[Netz]

I'm toying around with a Mod 11 plastic stock and cannot get my bondo to stick, Whats the secret??
Curt

[jglover_81]

I used some course sandpaper and roughed up the plastic and it seemed to stick pretty well.... I also wrapped mine in fiberglass once I finished with the bondo to give it a harder finish!

[Netz]

I was just trying to fill in the Checkering, and once dry it just lifted out.
I've heard of passing a torch over it to bring up the oils.
I used carb cleaner when I added some stiffeners to the forend, but I used a 2 part resin for filler.
Curt

[sharpshooter]

I'm toying around with a Mod 11 plastic stock and cannot get my bondo to stick, Whats the secret??
Curt

Get a different stock.

[DGD6MM]

My Buddy Teele1 built a beautiful stock out of one of those. It has held up nicely.

[jmason]

I redid a plastic stock. I outlined my process here, about half way down.

http://savageshooters.com/SavageForum/index.php/topic,43014.0.html

[Netz]

Get a different stock.


There's always one in the crowd ;D
This is my nephews gun and I wanted to try all the home brew mods on this that I could .
Someday when he finds a stock style he likes we'll switch it up, I hope I can talk him into a Hvy barrel too...

I was wondering about a primer, but had the same fear of adhesion, I'll look into the spray epoxy, but I didn't want it invest any $ into it to keep it truly home brew (using what I had on hand)
Removing the Checkering is my deal, I just don't care for the look of checkering in a synthetic stock, and when I paint it I think it may detract from the finish.
I wonder if JB weld will stick any better??
Curt

[cmorsch]

have you thought about a this layer of expanding glue then trimming off the excess?

[Netz]

I'm not sure that will do, it will be porous, and would not be a solid base for bondo.
I think Brake Drum cleaner might help, as it's very aggressive to plastic, it will probably melt the top layer, this my seal in the oils that are acting like a release agent.
I'll also test a spot of JB weld, either that or live with the checkering.
Thanks for the idea though.
Curt

[teele1]

you mean this Snowman?

http://img408.imageshack.us/img408/9659/p1000817a.jpg

degreaser and some sanding to roughen up the surface then bondohair then putty-cote before DuraCoat finish

[farmboy]

Some time ago I did a tupperware stock. Didn't have problems with bondo sticking. Wanted a unique stock design. Wanted to see if I could do it. Sharp Shooter said back then it wasn't worth it. He was right!! I would not do this again. You can buy a better stock cheaper than what you can build. I have learned that when Fred speaks on these kinds of issues it pays to listen.

Farmboy

[Netz]

Well as I said I'm just trying out some of the do it yourself tricks just to make the stock stiffer in the forend, and remove the checkering.
Well I took a wire brush and carb cleaner to the plastic, it seems to be holding up better than the 1st application of bondo, but that may have also acted as a sponge to suck out some of the release agent from the initial injection process.

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a92/Netz_/100_7753c-vert.jpg

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a92/Netz_/100_7778c-vert.jpg

I used a Carbon Fiber Arrow shaft to stiffen the forend, I cut out the cross gussets and laid 2 shafts on eather side of the center rib, I then flowed a 2 part casting resin in to secure everything in place.
It's quite stiff now, as still very light.
Curt

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a92/Netz_/100_7727c-vert.jpg

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a92/Netz_/100_7729c-vert.jpg

[MWalker]

I used a Carbon Fiber Arrow shaft to stiffen the forend, I cut out the cross gussets and laid 2 shafts on eather side of the center rib, I then flowed a 2 part casting resin in to secure everything in place.
It's quite stiff now, as still very light.
Curt

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a92/Netz_/100_7727c-vert.jpg

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a92/Netz_/100_7729c-vert.jpg

That is what I am wanting to try on my tupperware stock. I have a couple broken carbon arrows but may use solid aluminum rods from Home Depot. What 2 part casting resin did you use?

[Netz]

It's a Polyurethane resin I have here at the house, I don't think it would be too economical to buy for this project, but here is what it is and where we get it.
http://www.hobbysilicone.com/resin.htm#mpk-70-180
I would probably suggest a 2 part epoxy or JB Weld, just make sure to rough up the inside of the stock (maybe drill some holes) as I've found nothing likes to stick to it.
Curt

[DGD6MM]

That's the 1 Bandit.

[Elkbane]

Sharpshooter gave you some good advice - get a different stock... But if you really want to do this, I think you'll find that the flex point is at the front action screw holes - by stiffening the forend, now you've created a nice, stiff lever to transmit the flex to the hinge point. The fix for this is to cut some 1/8x 5/8" aluminum strapping to fit tight against the sides of the mag well to stabilize the section bewteen the action screw holes. Test fit them with your action installed to make sure they don't bind the action in any way, because they aren't coming out after you glue them in. Then expxy them in place with JB or PC-7. They add little weight and really stiffen the whole thing up.

Elkbane

[Netz]

It's done....
Curt
http://savageshooters.com/SavageForum/index.php/topic,44747.msg307809.html#msg307809

http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s720x720/302592_2285558532031_1040913023_2615818_164232080_ n.jpg

[Netz]

Sharpshooter gave you some good advice - get a different stock... But if you really want to do this, I think you'll find that the flex point is at the front action screw holes - by stiffening the forend, now you've created a nice, stiff lever to transmit the flex to the hinge point. The fix for this is to cut some 1/8x 5/8" aluminum strapping to fit tight against the sides of the mag well to stabilize the section bewteen the action screw holes. Test fit them with your action installed to make sure they don't bind the action in any way, because they aren't coming out after you glue them in. Then expxy them in place with JB or PC-7. They add little weight and really stiffen the whole thing up.

Elkbane


I did contemplate damming that area up and flowing in some resin, but ended up just letting that area go, but I do understand what you mean.
Curt